Special
Report - Puerto
Rican Barbecue
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By most historical accounts,
historians agree that barbecue originated in the Caribbean islands before being brought to
the Carolinas where it spread to the rest of the American continent to
become an American tradition. The tradition continues in the Caribbean
today as meat roasted over wood coals is still enjoyed on the island
of Puerto Rico. Lechón de Asado (pig roasts) and trucks selling Pollo
al Carbon (BBQ Chicken) are common sites along Puerto Rican highways,
particulary on weekends. |
| One of The
Smoke Ring's favorite spots is Rincón, a quiet town on the west coast
of the island at the point where the Atlantic meets the Caribbean. We
recently visited a couple of barbecue vendor's in Rincón to see how
barbecue is prepared Puerto Rican style. |
| Our
first stop is at Chuito's "El Carajo" Bar and Grill on Route 115 where local pitmaster Gelo
(pronounced halo) prepares lechón asada every Saturday and Sunday. It
is 8:00 AM and Gelo informs us that the pig has been on since
7:00. Gelo, who works in the local supermarket during the week
prepares roast pig at Chuito's every weekend. The pig is rubbed
with a simple mixture of salt and pepper and then placed on a
rotisserie over hot coals inside the portable pig cooker. Hardwood
charcoal is placed in a ring around the outside of the cooker to
provide indirect heat. The sides of the cooker fold up to hold in
the heat and smoke. Gelo informs us the pig will be ready to eat
around 12:00 so we promise to check back later. |
Pitmaster Gelo |
| Since it will be a
few hours before Gelo has the pig ready, we head up Route 115
toward downtown Rincón where the El Calientito pollo al carbon
truck is a familiar site on weekends. Whole chickens are seasoned
and then slowly roasted over hardwood charcoal (al carbon) in a
rotisserie cooker on the back of the truck. The front part of the
truck contains a small kitchen where the side dishes are prepared
and served up through the counter-top window. You can purchase a
chicken plate, served with side dishes of arroz con gandules (rice
with pigeon peas) and boiled vegetables consisting of yuca, yautia,
batata, plantain and other local starchy vegetables. You can also
buy a whole chicken to take home and a family size portion of side
dishes. An inexpensive way to feed the entire family a delicious
meal without slaving in the kitchen. |
| After recovering
from a breakfast of pollo al carbon, we head back to Chuito's
around noon for a lunch of lechón de asado. Gelo is still busy
tending the pit and he opens up the cooker to check the pig. It's
almost ready, but the cafe owner Jesus Chuito hasn't arrived yet.
I sit at the bar, have a couple of Medalle (Puerto Rican beer) and
chat with the locals while waiting. El Carrajo is an open air bar
built in a gazebo style with a counter around the outside and the
serving area in the center. It is a popular gathering place in the
evenings. |
| Jesus shows up,
sharpens his knives and prepares a table and cutting board next to
the cooker. He cuts off a piece of crispy pig skin and passes
pieces around the bar as samples. The pig is ready! The pig is
left in the cooker as Jesus slices off a chunk, lays it on the
cutting board and chops it up with a cleaver. The chopped pork is
then weighed on a scale into individual, half pound and full pound
portions. A whole pound of lechón de asado will cost you $6.00, a
half pound is $3.00. |
The pig is ready |
|
Chuito's lechón
asado plate |
As passersby realize
the lechón is ready, a continuous stream of cars pull up to
purchase a pound to take home. Finally, the moment I've been
waiting for has arrived. I'm served a generous helping of chopped
pork along with sides of arroz con gandules and the ubiquitous
boiled vegetables. Unlike American BBQ, it's served without sauce.
I take a bite and wash it down with a swig of Medalle. Ahhhh!
Barbecue heaven. It just don't get no better than this. |
| Why not visit
Puerto Rico and experience lechón asado and pollo al carbon for
yourself. Rincón is the perfect family vacation spot. It is far
away from the hustle and bustle of San Juan and has some of the
most beautiful and secluded beaches on the island. The Atlantic
side is well known by surfers for its magnificent waves while the
calmer Caribbean side is great for snorkeling. You can also enjoy
the beautiful west coast sunsets. If you decide to visit, consider
staying at the fabulous Córcega
Sands Villas, two luxurious private residences on beautiful
Córcega beach. |
|
Córcega
Beach |
West coast sunset |
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