anybody use a chargriller?

vortmax · Newbie Joined: 07 Aug 2010 Posts: 29 Location: Calumet, MI

First post here! I just bought a CG pro and a SFB and found this site looking for install instructions. Mine didn't come with any except for a packet of screws labled "side fire box", and it is also one of the SFB's that didn't get punched right, so my quick install turned into a trip to the hardware store for extra cut off wheels.

I've looked through the old posts and think I'm up to speed on what it takes to make this perform. I do plan on doing a lot of grilling with (probably more grilling then smoking, at least at first). Any suggested mods to improve it as a grill? How about seasoning it? Just oil the grates and let it burn off a chimney of cheap charcoal?

vortmax · Newbie Joined: 07 Aug 2010 Posts: 29 Location: Calumet, MI

Just an update. Took the grill for the first run tonight. Put a full chimney in the sfb with a few lumps of hickory and 2 chimneys in the main box. Threw some foil wrapped potatos in the SFB and (because the grates aren't seasoned yet), laid some foil down on the grates in the main box and threw on some chicken parts and a pork tenderloin. Finished it off by roasting some corn on the warming rack. Hickory grilled corn = best corn ever.

The grill worked great. Two chimneys in the main box plus the SFB was WAY too much heat though, so the chicken cooked a little fast, but I think I've figured out how much is enough. It seems to draft a lot better (and cook a lot hotter) then my old Weber grill.

I do have an issue with the lid closing right. It seems to close crooked so that the left edge barely clears, but there is a huge gap on the right side. I've noticed that the upper and lower halfs are out of shape, causing the to bow outward along their length. I'm thinking about getting some AL angle channel and riveting it along the edges of the top and bottom to pull it back into shape and provide a surface to run a seal.

Soapm · Posted: Aug 08 2010 Post subject:

What's the difference between the Outlaw, Pro Delux and Super Pro? I know the outlaw is slightly bigger but is there additional features between these models?

I can get the Super Pro at Lowes for $119 and the Outlaw at Walmart for $150.

patruns · Posted: Aug 09 2010 Post subject:

patruns · Posted: Aug 09 2010 Post subject:

vortmax · Newbie Joined: 07 Aug 2010 Posts: 29 Location: Calumet, MI

patruns · Posted: Aug 09 2010 Post subject:

I would wire brush the grates to get and gunk off them. Then wipe oil over everything, or spray with Pam. Then start a small fire in both areas and close and let it just burn out. You're looking for a temp of about 400, but it might climb higher. If it gets to 500 or over, just open briefly to let out the heat. Too high and the pain on the outside will start to peel.

BTW, you may see that start to happen on the edge of the SFB. If it does, just scrape off the loose paint and wipe with oil and it will season on the outside as well.
_________________
Pat

Char-Griller Outlaw with SFB
Weber Smokey Joe
Weber Q 220
LIAR#49

KAKid · Posted: Aug 13 2010 Post subject:

Did some new mods on the Outlaw and also had to make mods to existing mods.

The cement for the gaskets just wouldn't take hold to the paint and didn't want to remove it (rust prevention). So I got some steel rivets and used five across the back of the lid and five on the lip in the front of the lid to keep them in place.

Turning the grate over wasn't working for me. I got ceramic briquets and placed them on the grate and covered with foil. First cook I had the grates too high and used foil to make a baffle. Nope, keeping the grate lower and just a bit of foil in front of the SFB opening to diffuse the heat a bit.

Don't have to move it often, but these wheels make it a breeze. Got 1/2 inch steel rods for axles, 2 ten inch and 2 eight inch mower wheels w/ball bearings. Replaced existing wheels with axle (no drilling, just a touch with a grinding point) and the 10 inchers. Other side I did have to drill the holes for the axle and boy did I get lucky. Drilled one leg then put axle thru to "spot" where the other leg needed holes. Cut off 1 inch of the legs for the smaller wheels. Used stainless washers for spacers as needed. Found stainless collars with an offset allen screw to hold the wheels on. No cotter pins, looks sleek. Less than $60 and well worth it! Very Happy

Only took about 2 hours (Measured 5 times, drilled/cut once) with a drill and a hacksaw. Cool

Okay, I'll remove the UPC stickers. Gotta pay attention to detail. Laughing

Insulation and spring handles coming later down the road.
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I was taught to respect my elders. It's just getting harder to find them.

Chargriller Outlaw w/SFB and Mods
Pair of UDS's
10 gal CI Chili/Jambalaya pot

Soapm · Posted: Aug 13 2010 Post subject:

Two things, what do you mean turning the grate over didn't work? I was planning to do that this weekend for my first cook so I am wondering what to look for and trying to picture what you mean by using foil for baffle?

Also, I can't get the dryer duct to fit well on the exhaust stack. The dryer duct is a lot bigger. Any suggestions?

patruns · Posted: Aug 14 2010 Post subject:

Soapm · Posted: Aug 14 2010 Post subject:

KAKid · Posted: Aug 14 2010 Post subject:

Soapm · Posted: Aug 14 2010 Post subject:

KAKid · Posted: Aug 14 2010 Post subject:

It is hard to see with all that shiny foil. Coal grate with briquets is covered with foil to keep them clean. Wrapped foil around tines on the grate height adjuster/handle just above SFB opening. Angled it down to coal grate about 6 inches away. You can see the end of the foil baffle to the left side of the pic. It's just hanging there.
IF it works, will try to rig a small sheet of aluminum to do the job. Will probably be a week or so before I can test it.

I have a piece of 4" duct that needs a project, too. Laughing

_________________
I was taught to respect my elders. It's just getting harder to find them.

Chargriller Outlaw w/SFB and Mods
Pair of UDS's
10 gal CI Chili/Jambalaya pot

Cory Hess · Posted: Aug 14 2010 Post subject:

I've flipped the grate over and put a little foil in between the opening to the SFB and the end of the grate and that worked out pretty well.
_________________
UDS

"Tact is the art of making a point without making an enemy."

daddywoofdawg · Posted: Aug 14 2010 Post subject:

Giggles:I just noticed your from twin lakes WI.I was vending there at country thunder did you go?
As far as the baffle into the smoke chamber on mine I bought a thin piece of alum sheet drilled holes where the firebox mounted to the smoke chamber and bent it to a 22 degree angle(about)and that worked well.
_________________
Good BBQ is all smoke and beers!
The Dawghouse Custom vertical Gasser
Custom Made offset smoker
Char grill smoker
Weber kettle

Soapm · Posted: Aug 15 2010 Post subject:

I've been doing a post motem from todays cook and believe I may see part of the problem, if you look at this picture you will see I installed the rods on my basket at the very top.

This caused the basket to sit below the opening to the cooking chamber as seen in this picture.

This would be fine I believe if I had a hotter fire like using a log but I believe my smoldering coals aren't adequately able to heat the air as it passes over the fire. I believe by moving the rods lower on the basket it will force a portion of the air to pass through the coal fire as opposed to over the top. I hope this change will give me the temp boost I need.

Edited to add.. It also looks like I will get more air under the basket instead of just flowing over the top. This also should give me a hotter fire...

The problem I foresee is possibly pulling soot and ash from the coals into the cooking chamber. That would be disastrous...