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Build My Pit 101
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dwilliams35
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Joined: 17 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11 17 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, k.a.m.; I was anticipating having SOME kind of venting there; I was thinking something on the top with a damper, and some kind of cold air intake down low to make an attempt to moderate the temperature if needed: is that a viable plan, or is that just my newbie self over complicating things? I wasn't going to vent the CC into it, either, just use firebox heat for it; I have no idea if that's workable or not..
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11 17 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You just need a good access point for moisture I like the upper side because it cant drip on my pans. That small a box it will probably run hot anyway. If so then look into a double top like I put on Bahama Mama it should help cool it down.
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Flyingj
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Joined: 20 Jun 2014
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Location: North Texas

PostPosted: Tue Mar 14 17 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

dwilliams35 wrote:



I flipped it up on end to weld hinges on that cleanout door, which is where the screw up fairy made herself known.. I never caught it until I flipped it, but the bottom doesn't align right with the base on one side. You can't tell just looking at it without flipping it over, but it really screws up the hinge place,net and door swing. Looks awful. I've got a few ideas about how to fix it, but I'm just going to leave the pan as is once I get the door figured out.


Your cooker is looking great dwilliams35. Just in case you're looking for ideas for folding that front door on your Parrilla, here is how I did mine, with bullet hinges. Works like a champ.






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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14 17 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny you should say that, flyingj; your build is the one I've had bookmarked for over a year while putting this together; by the time I get done this may very well look like some kind of shameless knockoff of yours, albeit a tad smaller and exhibiting multiple examples of inferior craftsmanship by comparison.. I was waiting until I cut the door for the crawfish burners on the back deck to give you full credit, but now is as good a time as any.. yours just had everything I wanted and then some; of course, my wife would be pretty bent out of shape at you if she knew what this WAS going to be instead of what it WILL be; all these extra features take time that I could otherwise use weeding flowerbeds and repainting spare bedrooms.. priorities, right?

Back to the ash door on the Parilla; I've got a few latches similar to the hood latch on a jeep, ( the older steel sprung ones, not the newer rubber version) that I was going to use on each end of that door; I was hoping the spring closure would knock out any misalignment rattle I would have if I don't get the latches just perfect. The door is full width of the parilla by comparison to yours, and I've got the coal grate designed with a "wiper" angle iron on the back; I should be able to just pull it out in the pasture behind the house, open the door, and pull the coal grate out once, and it will drag all the ash out onto the ground. At which point the dogs will be sniffing it and wondering what they missed... very little scooping involved, if any.
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Flyingj
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 14 17 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad to help out brother. Very Happy Thank you for the compliments.
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dwilliams35
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Joined: 17 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 02 17 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been picking at it...

Got the deflector plate and the rails for the tuning plates and the cooking grates in, and built the grates. I'm still debating just how to fill the gaps in between and outside the grates: plate would be easiest, but how would that affect meat that ends up sitting on it? Any suggestions or ideas there?






I Assembled the warming box I was talking about before, the neighbor across the highway borrowed my MIG gas bottle for about a week longer than I had anticipated, so I had to crank up the old stick machine...




Put in slide-in sacrificial plate on top of the firebox; a couple of heavy angle iron rails on the sides, wide enough where it can't fall in.. I figured this would let me tweak size on it, perforate it, whatever needed to make the warming box work right...

I put a couple of pieces of 1" square tubing on the top of the plate, jacked it up against the top of the firebox, then put in the angle rails. Then pulled plate out and let the tubing spacers drop.





Put the back "gate" on (see flyingj's build), including license plate bracket. Will fill the rest with expanded metal.



Vertical rails for parilla/santa Maria grill in;



Warming box put together, rails for pans, and door added. I'm still figuring out what to do for a latch there...





All coming along;



I guess the next step is to finish the parilla; it's not fully secured as of yet, I need to nail down exactly how it will sit on there before I can finish the wood baskets, etc. Trailer fenders need to go on for the same reason. I also started on the firebox wood grate tonight. I can definitely see the light at the end of the tunnel now, and am fairly confident it's not a train..
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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04 17 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, ran into a question here and I've not successfully found the answer here; I've cut my tuning plates, but... how do you keep the plates where they belong on a trailer pit? Tack them down, or mark where you want them somehow and rearrange them after they bounce around on the road?
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06 17 1:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dwilliams35 wrote:
Okay, ran into a question here and I've not successfully found the answer here; I've cut my tuning plates, but... how do you keep the plates where they belong on a trailer pit? Tack them down, or mark where you want them somehow and rearrange them after they bounce around on the road?

I do not have any lock downs on my plates. If they move while I am traveling I remove the grates and put them back where I want them. Once you know how they are set up it only takes a second to re-position them. If you lock them down or use bolts and want to change during a cook you will find it very frustrating while the cooker is at or above 250°
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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06 17 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m. wrote:

I do not have any lock downs on my plates. If they move while I am traveling I remove the grates and put them back where I want them. Once you know how they are set up it only takes a second to re-position them. If you lock them down or use bolts and want to change during a cook you will find it very frustrating while the cooker is at or above 250°
. I was thinking about just getting them "figured out" during a test burn, then put a little weld bead on the inside of the CC at the edge of each plate just for a location reference. Does that sound like it would be worth doing?
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06 17 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dwilliams35 wrote:
I was thinking about just getting them "figured out" during a test burn, then put a little weld bead on the inside of the CC at the edge of each plate just for a location reference. Does that sound like it would be worth doing?

In my opinion no it is not a good idea at all.
1.The test burn will not be a loaded cooker and it will not give you a true reading of what to expect as far as plate placement.

2. As I have mentioned re-positioning plates is easy once you know their position.

3. if you make them fixed how will you clean out the belly of the cooker?
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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06 17 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m. wrote:
dwilliams35 wrote:
I was thinking about just getting them "figured out" during a test burn, then put a little weld bead on the inside of the CC at the edge of each plate just for a location reference. Does that sound like it would be worth doing?

In my opinion no it is not a good idea at all.
1.The test burn will not be a loaded cooker and it will not give you a true reading of what to expect as far as plate placement.

2. As I have mentioned re-positioning plates is easy once you know their position.

3. if you make them fixed how will you clean out the belly of the cooker?
I wasn't referring to welding the plates there, just putting a bead next to the rail as a point of reference for when I was "resetting" them after they bounced off.. just welding on a measuring tape, in effect.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06 17 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dwilliams35 wrote:
k.a.m. wrote:
dwilliams35 wrote:
I was thinking about just getting them "figured out" during a test burn, then put a little weld bead on the inside of the CC at the edge of each plate just for a location reference. Does that sound like it would be worth doing?

In my opinion no it is not a good idea at all.
1.The test burn will not be a loaded cooker and it will not give you a true reading of what to expect as far as plate placement.

2. As I have mentioned re-positioning plates is easy once you know their position.

3. if you make them fixed how will you clean out the belly of the cooker?
I wasn't referring to welding the plates there, just putting a bead next to the rail as a point of reference for when I was "resetting" them after they bounced off.. just welding on a measuring tape, in effect.

You could but it is not needed. Once you learn the plates and it will take a few cooks to do it you will know where they are best suited. You have to figure out the optimum setting for different scenarios such as wind outdoor temps and amount of meat being cooked.
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Flyingj
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 06 17 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had this same conversation with k.a.m. when building mine. Rest assured it is no big deal to reposition the plates after going down the road. There is a discussion on my build link addressing this. I gave Kevin a hard time about the "fancy" handles on his tuning plates and then made some for mine Laughing Wink. Sure makes it easy tweaking the plates before or during the cook.

I'm still learning about how my cooker runs in different weather conditions. Like Kevin mentioned, the CC temp from one end to the other is greatly affected by outside temp, wind and how the cooker is loaded. You definitely want your plates easily moveable.
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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 07 17 11:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had seen when you were talking about the handles, but I guess I missed the rest: I've got the plates cut and in there, im really just a firebox wood grate away from a test burn on it.. still trying to squeeze that in around the rest of life that seems to keep getting in the way lately..
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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 29 17 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Filling in some of the details;


Put some leftover diamond plate in the front to keep mud, etc. from splashing up in there..


Doors on sides where I can fit them in for storage access, expanded metal everywhere else; I was figuring on the "compartment" forward of the CC would be firewood storage.







Plate in swing "tailgate" is for a license plate.



Slowly picking at it when I get time...
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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Tue May 16 17 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any suggestions for a target height for the firebox grate? I mean ash space under the grate, not overall height.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Tue May 16 17 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

3" to 5" is really all you need.
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JoeMofknDot
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Joined: 23 Sep 2012
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Location: Las Vegas, Nevada

PostPosted: Sat Jun 03 17 10:58 am    Post subject: Nice build Reply with quote

Build is looking good!
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http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=61061&sid=e3d36e41a0c695551002a16aef11ff00
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dwilliams35
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Joined: 17 Mar 2010
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 03 17 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Joe: been a long haul, but it's getting to the end of the tunnel now... a little more progress;

Cut the "hatch" for the crawfish burners; (wink and a nod to flyingj....). Just did 4 plunge cuts with that little cordless circular saw I've got; that thing's been absolutely invaluable throughout this build.








Cut a vent hole in the top of the back wall of the warming chamber as k.a.m. suggested; rather than just adding a stack I went with this door flap apparatus... ( the "tail" on the handle has been cut off now)







Just have the die spring to adjust pressure on a "friction plate" on the shaft..

Fenders on and "brush cleaners" built;




Smokin' deal on some post oak, so I got a load;



Then put a bunch of it on pallets to store in the barn...



I'm just down to making some latches, wrapping up the crank system on the parilla/santa Maria grill, finishing the firebox grate and the crawfish burner, and a couple of other bits and pieces.. getting really close now. I'll have some more shortly.
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Flyingj
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 06 17 6:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice dwilliams35. I look forward to seeing the finished product. And I know you certainly are too! Very Happy
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