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Bkndsdl's Insulated Hybrid - DONE!!
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17 15 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got some time to work on the smoker this weekend.

I was able to split the cooking chamber bottom and start on the slope. I figured I'd go with 1/8" to a foot; this will give me 1/2" at the end of the slope, which I think will be plenty. First thing was to cut three angles to the desired slope. Since I'm going with 1/8" to a foot, I placed the angles at 12" increments and cut the first one with a 1/8" deep cut, the next was 1/4", and the last was 3/8". Here they are to give you a visual, the one on the top is the 1/8", next is 1/4, last is 3/8".



Next was to install them under the bottom of the sloped plate. I put a 1" sq tube under the angle to use as an alignment tool. It's hard to see, but here is the 3/8" angle set in place before welding. It fit PERFECT.



It fit so good, I was able to take what I cut off the 3/8" angle and set it in place on top to fill the gap. Like a glove!



Once those were all in, I removed the triangle piece at the front of the slope, scribed the new cut, and set it in place. It has a slight bow from the center to the ends, which will help in facilitating drainage. Welded it all up and ground it smooth. Here's the end result. Very, very pleased with this.


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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17 15 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the smoker raised. I ended up raising it 6" and am very happy with it. I need to get some more 1/4" plate to make the last two pads for the casters on the inside end of the vertical.



Much more clearance.



I was able to get the front inside put on, and got the face of the horizontal started. Hope to put this on before the weekend so I can start insulating.



I picked up the next order of steel Monday; this will allow me to finish the insulating and shelling of the horizontal, and two sides of the vertical. I picked up some more angle and square tube so I can hopefully start on the horizontal doors and grating angle. My next cut steel order will be my last. I have decided to go ahead and cut the exhaust from plate to save some money. Bit more welding but a stick of 4" x 11ga tube is $112.......I'd rather weld it.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 17 15 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice work I like what I am seeing. Very Happy
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 22 15 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m. wrote:
Very nice work I like what I am seeing. Very Happy


Thank you sir, quite a compliment coming from you!

I was able to get some stuff done today.

Got the tuning plate rack in and welded.



Got two of the outsides braced and ready for the insulation and outer skin. The two tubes in the middle are to brace the rack supports.



Got the drain tube installed and welded out.



I wanted to put the insulation between the vert and horiz cabinets in before I put the front on, so I had to finalize the drain for the vertical. I will need a drain when I'm cooking something that won't get a drip pan, say like chicken. So, here's what I came up with. I took a piece of angle and cut a slope on it.



This will make both a slope and a level shelf rack; I will make the slope level, therefore creating a slope draining forward towards the front of the cabinet.



It slopes to a square tube that's installed between the two chambers. The square tube has a hole cut in it the same size as the sloping angle, so the slope will drain into the tube. Here is the square tube....



Here is where the tube exits, inside the horiz; it is open on the bottom, and will drain onto the sloped plate, eventually ending up at the drain.



Once that was in and welded, I was able to insulate the side, then cover it up. I used the drop from the door cutouts to make this piece.





I also insulated the front section of the horiz where the gap between the doors will be. I drilled two holes in this area too for my probes, one high for the upper grating and one lower for the lower grating. One other thing I did was to get the lower racks started, but I ran out of 1x1 angle. Didn't get any pics of that but I'll do that tomorrow. It was a very productive day.
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Wreckless
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23 15 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow! And you encountered only a few up is down moments so far? That is incredible. Lots of work and thought into that cooker. I like it a lot! Very Happy Carry on, this is interesting. Nice work so far. Cool
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23 15 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wreckless wrote:
Wow! And you encountered only a few up is down moments so far? That is incredible. Lots of work and thought into that cooker. I like it a lot! Very Happy Carry on, this is interesting. Nice work so far. Cool


Thanks man, that means a lot coming from you. I must admit I have encountered a few other bonehead moments but they were fixed relatively quick. I tend to overthink, which means I take forever to do something. Lol. The major pain with this thing is getting it level; I have to roll it out on concrete pads, then use my jack and level it. I got it level or so I thought and put in a few things unlevel, like the tuning plate angle, but when the double-check dims didn't come out right I realized it had shifted on the blocks and was no longer level. That's about the biggest issue I've had since the whole built it backward incident.

I got one horizontal door framed, and one side of the skin on. I can't go any farther with the doors without more material. But, with that one door I can figure out where my handles go, which will determine where the shelf goes, so I can do a lot with just one door. I can skin the horizontal side plate, and I can skin the vertical top and one side. Stay tuned!
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Dustyh
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 23 15 10:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really nice work Bkndsdl. I really like your design can't wait to see more pics.
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24 15 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well..........speaking of DUH moments.......I drilled the holes for the horizontal outside skin......can you see the DUH?!?



Whatcha gonna weld to??!??!!?




Drilled the holes in the corners where the tubes are open. DUH!! I did the back bottom one the correct way but only by accident, lol. Fixed it pretty easily but still coulda been a lot worse; this was a blessing in disguise because I almost forgot to insulate it before putting it on!! If the holes woulda been right I might not have caught it until I had welded it on.
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24 15 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dustyh wrote:
Really nice work Bkndsdl. I really like your design can't wait to see more pics.


thanks man! Yours is looking mighty fine sir, those ribs look outa sight!
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30 15 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, some good news and some bad news. Bad news, I don't know if I'll have a job next week. Long story short, I am a contractor, and with the low oil prices our companie's business is forced to let contractors go. I am going on sea trial next week which will mean lots of overtime, but we come back in to port on Thursday and Friday I just might be let go. So, obviously I'll have to curtail spending any $$$ on the smoker until I find more stable work. Good book says to cast all your anxieties on Him, and that's all I can really do, so I'll trust that God has a plan for me.

Good news is, I have some material so I can do some work on the smoker without spending any money.

Here's my foldable shelf idea. Got this from the ceramic cooker I used to have. The shelf will be held up by a 1/4" rod and a notched piece of 1" tube. The shelf will be able to be tilted up, pulled back, and laid down. Here's some pics to explain.

Here's the slot and notch in the square tube. To make the slot I drilled two 5/16" holes in the tube 1/2" apart, then used my cutting disc to remove the material in between the holes. Not happy with the cuts on the ends of the holes, but it got the job done. This is a test piece. For the notch, at first I tried to drill it by placing two tubes in my drill press and drilling between the two, but it ended up putting too much stress on the drill press so I used my grinder to put a notch in it it instead.



Here is how the shelf will be held up; the tube is slid all the way towards the smoker, and the notch on the tube is under the 1/4" rod. This is when the shelf will be in use. Disregard the notch on the bottom, there is a more shallow notch on the top of the tube.



Next, the tube is shown in the slid back position and is now clear of the 1/4" rod. The shelf can now be put in the stowage position. Again, disregard the bottom notch.


Here it is in the correct orientation. Shelf in use.....



Pulled up and back, clear of the rod.......



And finally in stowed position.



Here it is on the smoker.



Another view, showing it resting on the 1/4" rod.



And here is a shot of the notch clear of the rod.



There will be three of these installed to suppoort the shelf. Thanks for looking!
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Wreckless
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 30 15 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some decent home grown engineering there. Yah, it works from where I am sitting. If not already in the plans, be sure and go the extra yard and cap those open tube ends if I may suggest. Good luck with the job, seems you have placed your needs in proper hands. Very Happy
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03 15 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wreckless wrote:
That's some decent home grown engineering there. Yah, it works from where I am sitting. If not already in the plans, be sure and go the extra yard and cap those open tube ends if I may suggest. Good luck with the job, seems you have placed your needs in proper hands. Very Happy


Oh yeah, end tubes will be capped. Aesthetics are paramount in my book!

Thanks man.

Well, sea trial went well, and I have been told that there shouldn't be any more layoffs.......God is good.

I was able to get one of the lower grates made. I used 1/2" angle for height restrictions, and put the grate below the angle. I didn't want to have to grind all the welds where I'd have to weld it if I put it on the top, plus it looks cleaner to me. Here's the grate, and the retaining tabs.




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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04 15 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok guys, I have a question. I am going to be using tadpole gaskets, namely these:

Tadpole gaskets 8815K12

They are 3/8" in diameter. I do not have them now, but I was wanting to get the gap for the door set before I put them on. My question is, should I put a 3/8" gap between the door and seat, or should I allow for some crush of the gasket and go maybe with a 1/4" gap?
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05 15 12:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I install dummy seals to set my doors. The gasket is cheap enough IMHO to ensure I get them set just right. Cheaper than having to possibly reset ( and possibly replace) a set of hinges when the fit up isn't what I would like. You can do the whole door (real world) or even just use what you know you will have leftover and place (glue) in corners, middle, etc small patches. I use the dummy seals only because I am going to have the smoker blasted later on for paint app so the seals will have to come off. I install the permanent ones once back from blast and paint. If you can manage to clamp the doors in place somewhat via c-clamp and maybe the door latch, set it to around 80% full compression and weld the hinges in place. This should give you nice seal up when in real use. Check the first of the links on my post for an example.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 05 15 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry to hear about the job situation Brother, I pray it all works out for you.

I am loving this build more and more with every pic and update Bkndsdl. Very Happy
I would contact McMastercarr and find out what the crush % is on the gasket or do as Mike said and use some pieces to set the door.

The shelf hinge reminds me of one I did for a back yard cooker years ago, I wanted a way for the shelf to fold down. You can check it out here if you like.
http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=17781&postdays=0&postorder=asc
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07 15 7:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wreckless wrote:
I install dummy seals to set my doors. The gasket is cheap enough IMHO to ensure I get them set just right. Cheaper than having to possibly reset ( and possibly replace) a set of hinges when the fit up isn't what I would like.


Thanks Wreckless! Putting a small piece of gasket is exactly what I will do. Thanks man!

k.a.m. wrote:
Sorry to hear about the job situation Brother, I pray it all works out for you.


Prayers are greatly appreciated, man.

k.a.m. wrote:
I am loving this build more and more with every pic and update Bkndsdl. Very Happy


Thanks man! Posting pics means I'm making progress, and I try to do a little something every day, no matter how small. Sometimes I just go out and look at it, getting the ideas rolling in my head worked out.

k.a.m. wrote:
I would contact McMastercarr and find out what the crush % is on the gasket or do as Mike said and use some pieces to set the door.

The shelf hinge reminds me of one I did for a back yard cooker years ago, I wanted a way for the shelf to fold down. You can check it out here if you like.


Sounds like a good idea, and Wreckless gave me my next step, which is to buy one bundle of gasket of the two that I need. I need 36', and I have to buy 50', so I'll use the extra for getting the gap right.

When I read your post the first thing I noticed was the wedding in Mamou; that's where my Grandmother is from. Now THAT is Cajun country my friend!

That hinged table is awesome, nice and simple. Lol, I tend to go to the difficult side of things myself........I need to really apply the KISS rule a lot of times.

Thanks guys!! Yall are awesome!
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 07 15 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got some time to work on the smoker after work yesterday. I got the tuning plates cut and figured out. First thing was to cut one tuning plate from the 3/16"x4" flatbar. Then I was able to lay out the tuning plate rail on the table, and get the proper spacing for the holes set up. My idea is to have the tuning plate resting on top of the rail, and have a bolt through the plate attached to a nut and a retainer on the bottom side; this will hold the plate in place when I get it tuned by simply tightening the bolt.

Here's the tuning plate laid out, and the pieces I'll use to build the retaining mechanism. I cut a 1/4" piece from the 4" fb, and I'll cut that in half and weld one end to the 1/4" nut. You can barely see my lines on the fb. No, it's not stainless.....I guess the only 3/16"x4" fb they had was some cr stuff. It has no mill scale on it, and appears to have been rolled and sheared, but it is definitely carbon steel. Looks cool though!



Here is the retainer after welding and prettying up.



Here is how it will work: the clip will tighten against the angle rail and secure the tuning plate in place. There are two of these for each plate, one for each end of the plate.



On the bottom side, I had to add a stopper so the retainer won't turn off of the angle rail.



Here is the tuning plate in place. When the horizontal chamber is tuned, I'll simply tighten the bolt.



Here is the bottom side. Works like a charm!



I managed to get all the retainers cut and welded; this took me a while to do. It was very tedious and painful due to using flux core. It is times like this I wish I had a TIG machine. I coulda switched to MIG but I don't have any gas. In hindsight, I could have cut the retainers wider and drilled and tapped the retainer clip itself, but I figured this would save me some time. It did, but it was still a pain in the butt.

I got the tuning plates cut and straightened, and plan on drilling them today after work.

Thanks for looking!
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 10 15 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think I might have done a bit of cutting? Had to replace my cutting wheel; it got so small, the arbor was hitting the fence! I couldn't cut all the way through the tuning plates, had to work the piece back and forth to cut off the remaining 1/4". It's seen its share of metal!



I also ran through a full 10lb spool of wire, had to load a new spool yesterday. That means that because the deposition rate of this wire is 85%, I've added 8 1/2 lbs of weight in weld.............just in weld! And I just loaded another spool..........

About the only thing I did yesterday was manage to get it turned around in the shop to make it easier to work on inside the shop, and I was able to add the intake rails and get the intake slides made and mounted. It's supposed to rain all this weekend, but I am hoping I can get the fb to cc gate figured out and at least started, and I would really like to get the fb sliding grate built. Did a few test pieces this week and I feel like I've got that figured out.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11 15 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a great idea with the bolts and retainer nut to keep them in place. Here's my question though... what will you tighten and loosen them with? Ratchet, crescent wrench, hand tighten? If my understanding of tuning plates is correct, they will be HOT when you want to change them around for different zones, even temp side-to-side, etc. I know I can't do a whole lot of bolt-twisting with leather welding gloves on. Are you going to want to be reaching into the cooker with a ratchet or wrench when you have a lot of steel sitting at 250 degrees? I used to run a rubber injection mold machine a few years ago. I've gotten my share of armpit and elbow burns reaching inside the machine to remove the freshly molded part.

What about a handle for them? The bolt at the back would be behind the handle, wouldn't it? You've got some mad skills, brother. Keep it up. The rest of us want to see meat on that cooker and drool.
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Bkndsdl
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 11 15 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

missionsusmc wrote:
... what will you tighten and loosen them with? Ratchet, crescent wrench, hand tighten? If my understanding of tuning plates is correct, they will be HOT when you want to change them around for different zones, even temp side-to-side, etc.


I am going to use a rachet with an extension; the bolt head is all I have to get to, because of the stop on the bottom of the tuning plate. Plus, I have the gate from the fb to the cc, so I'll close that and open the doors, let the heat dissipate, then adjust.

[quote="missionsusmc"]What about a handle for them? The bolt at the back would be behind the handle, wouldn't it?/quote]

I am considering putting a handle on them, but I also was thinking of making a gap tool so that I won't need the handles. Something I can put in the gaps of multiple plates and space them. Not sure I follow the bolt at the back being behind the handle..........could you explain that a bit?


missionsusmc wrote:
... You've got some mad skills, brother. Keep it up. The rest of us want to see meat on that cooker and drool.


Thanks man! Dunno about the mad skills, but I sure do try. You and me both brother!
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