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Asphalt Cowboy
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Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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 Posted: Nov 30 2014 Post subject: going to start the smoker |
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| Hey I'm going to start on my reverse smoker. The tank is 68 inchs long and 24 wide. No bad for a free air compressor tank. I'm looking at cutting the door in along the seam. Or rolling the tank over and cutting off the feet. Then weilding on the legs to the compressor mounting plates. What why would be the best? I dont have a picture of the tank yet. |
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k.a.m.
BBQ Mega Star
Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26020
Location: Southeast Texas.
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| Posted: Nov 30 2014 Post subject: |
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I would roll the tank and place the seam somewhere between 11:00 and 6:00.
I do not want the seam in my way for anything that may effect the door, like hinge mounting, door seals and such.
Sometimes the welded seem can be under a lot of stress do to the process so cutting too close it may result in a more than usual spring in the tank and door.
I hope this helps. 
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Asphalt Cowboy
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Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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| Posted: Nov 30 2014 Post subject: |
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| That makes since I'll get some pictures today. Thanks k.a.m |
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k.a.m.
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Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26020
Location: Southeast Texas.
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| Posted: Nov 30 2014 Post subject: |
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You are very welcome. I look forward to following your progress.
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Always remember slow and steady wins the race.
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Asphalt Cowboy
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Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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k.a.m.
BBQ Mega Star
Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26020
Location: Southeast Texas.
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| Posted: Dec 01 2014 Post subject: |
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That is a nice looking tank Asphalt Cowboy.
How many ports are on the bottom right now?
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Always remember slow and steady wins the race.
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Asphalt Cowboy
Newbie
Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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| Posted: Dec 01 2014 Post subject: |
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| As it sits 1 for the drain. I am going to cut the feet off. Need to beg borrow or steal a torch. I'm going to place the seem at the 11o clock ( thank you kam). Then the 3 other plugs will be on the bottom. Not even going to mess with them. I am thinking my door is going to be around 12 inches tall and the length of the tank minus 3 on each side. Before i start the door I am pondering the idea of cutting some braces and tack welding them were the door will be to hopefully eliminate the spring action. So far today I removed each side the top mounting plates . Got that all cleaned up. Next weekend will move some stuff in the garage to put the tank in there. |
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k.a.m.
BBQ Mega Star
Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26020
Location: Southeast Texas.
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| Posted: Dec 01 2014 Post subject: |
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You should be able to get within 1.5" of the inside of the elliptical weld if you want to get closer.
If the plugs do not bother you I think it is a good idea to leave them be, plugging them and getting them to disappear can test your patience.
I normally cut my door top at 12:00 and 1" below 3:00 on a 24" diameter tank or pipe. You can come a bit lower than 12:00 without hurting your opening height.
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Asphalt Cowboy
Newbie
Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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| Posted: Dec 01 2014 Post subject: |
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| k.a.m. wrote: | | You should be able to get within 1.5" of the inside of the elliptical weld if you want to get closer. |
True
| k.a.m. wrote: | | If the plugs do not bother you I think it is a good idea to leave them be, plugging them and getting them to disappear can test your patience. |
Not going to bother me at all. In fact I am going to use one to also run propane. ( I know bad word) It will serve as a propane grill also. I have a charity ride in May. Last one there were about 350-400 ppl. 2 grills going at the same time. Took awhile for the food to get ready.
| k.a.m. wrote: | | I normally cut my door top at 12:00 and 1" below 3:00 on a 24" diameter tank or pipe. You can come a bit lower than 12:00 without hurting your opening height. |
Should make for a nice size opening then |
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Asphalt Cowboy
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Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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k.a.m.
BBQ Mega Star
Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26020
Location: Southeast Texas.
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| Posted: Dec 01 2014 Post subject: |
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| Asphalt Cowboy wrote: | | Not going to bother me at all. In fact I am going to use one to also run propane. ( I know bad word) It will serve as a propane grill also. I have a charity ride in May. Last one there were about 350-400 ppl. 2 grills going at the same time. Took awhile for the food to get ready. |
Please implement safety equipment for the propane.
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bellyrubbin
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Joined: 08 Dec 2012
Posts: 25
Location: Watertown, SD
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| Posted: Dec 01 2014 Post subject: |
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| Another thing I will mention, you may or may not have read this yet, but I would cut the fully top seam and then weld on your hinges before you finish cutting your door out. Can save you a bunch of pain and headaches later as I am sure a few on here have found out. Just make sure you put a straight edge on those hinge barrels and make sure there are aligned before welding. |
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k.a.m.
BBQ Mega Star
Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26020
Location: Southeast Texas.
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| Posted: Dec 01 2014 Post subject: |
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| bellyrubbin wrote: | | Another thing I will mention, you may or may not have read this yet, but I would cut the fully top seam and then weld on your hinges before you finish cutting your door out. Can save you a bunch of pain and headaches later as I am sure a few on here have found out. Just make sure you put a straight edge on those hinge barrels and make sure there are aligned before welding. |
Sometimes you get lucky and the door does not spring. Sometimes you are faced with a door that sprung and is difficult to fix if already attached to the cooker.
I have found that no matter what preparations you take, what your method of cutting is, if the tank or pipe are stressed in that are it will spring.
Personally I prefer to tweak doors that are not attached to the cooker, it puts less stress on the hinges if you need to get physical with the door.
These are just my thoughts.
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Wreckless
BBQ Super Pro
Joined: 15 May 2009
Posts: 2292
Location: New Braunfels, TX
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| Posted: Dec 01 2014 Post subject: |
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While I seldom worry about a sprung cooker door these days since I have for the most part done away with the nasty task, I offer up 3 suggestons. They were suggested to me, I found them to work quite well, I am passing them along. Vital to me at least, suggestions for the best success in cutting a curved door. . #1 is in reference to the seam. Being a machine weld, I have found thus far that it runs fairly accurately true / parallel to the tank / pipe. I will perform a secondary cross check to verify this but it is then used if found true, for locating / spotting my 3:00, 6:00, 9:00, 12:00 positions. Dividing the circumference by 4, using a scaled pipe wrap (easily and cheaply obtained from a LWS) I mark my positions on both ends. A cross reference distance check for symmetry can be made between each quadrant. A last cross check for symmetry of end to end can then be made by (with pipe level to ground) placing a level at the 3:00 and / or 9:00 positions. While this may seem tedious, it is insignificant compared to a skewed door. The pipe wrap is then used to provide a square to pipe layout for the door.
#2 When cutting out the door, leave a web in each corner and one in the middle of each length, ballpark figure of maybe 25% of total length of cut and allow to cool to outside ambient temp. The partial cut will help minimize excess heat warp and the web provides assist of keeping the cut portion in check. #3 Somewhere in the cooling process, some exterior tabs over the already cut portion, top and bottom and as an option, sides as well can be semi welded in place to hold the door in place after the final cut and as an assist in locating door for hinge mounting. With door cooled, finish step 2 removing remaining webs. Done.
TMI? Naw, don't believe so, not for a first time builder at least, possibly for experienced ones as well. Get this right and you are off to the races. Get it wrong and you will be there awhile resulting in plan "B", a door tweak or worse...plan "C", the Wreckless fix. Neither of the optional plans are desireable and best to stick with plan "A" if at all possible. Good luck to all. JM$.50CW
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k.a.m.
BBQ Mega Star
Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26020
Location: Southeast Texas.
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| Posted: Dec 02 2014 Post subject: |
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| Wreckless wrote: | While I seldom worry about a sprung cooker door these days since I have for the most part done away with the nasty task, I offer up 3 suggestons. They were suggested to me, I found them to work quite well, I am passing them along. Vital to me at least, suggestions for the best success in cutting a curved door. . #1 is in reference to the seam. Being a machine weld, I have found thus far that it runs fairly accurately true / parallel to the tank / pipe. I will perform a secondary cross check to verify this but it is then used if found true, for locating / spotting my 3:00, 6:00, 9:00, 12:00 positions. Dividing the circumference by 4, using a scaled pipe wrap (easily and cheaply obtained from a LWS) I mark my positions on both ends. A cross reference distance check for symmetry can be made between each quadrant. A last cross check for symmetry of end to end can then be made by (with pipe level to ground) placing a level at the 3:00 and / or 9:00 positions. While this may seem tedious, it is insignificant compared to a skewed door. The pipe wrap is then used to provide a square to pipe layout for the door.
#2 When cutting out the door, leave a web in each corner and one in the middle of each length, ballpark figure of maybe 25% of total length of cut and allow to cool to outside ambient temp. The partial cut will help minimize excess heat warp and the web provides assist of keeping the cut portion in check. #3 Somewhere in the cooling process, some exterior tabs over the already cut portion, top and bottom and as an option, sides as well can be semi welded in place to hold the door in place after the final cut and as an assist in locating door for hinge mounting. With door cooled, finish step 2 removing remaining webs. |
^^^^^^^^^
This must have been one of those times you did not ignore k.a.m.
 
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.
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Wreckless
BBQ Super Pro
Joined: 15 May 2009
Posts: 2292
Location: New Braunfels, TX
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| Posted: Dec 02 2014 Post subject: |
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| k.a.m. wrote: | | Wreckless wrote: | While I seldom worry about a sprung cooker door these days since I have for the most part done away with the nasty task, I offer up 3 suggestons. They were suggested to me, I found them to work quite well, I am passing them along. Vital to me at least, suggestions for the best success in cutting a curved door. . #1 is in reference to the seam. Being a machine weld, I have found thus far that it runs fairly accurately true / parallel to the tank / pipe. I will perform a secondary cross check to verify this but it is then used if found true, for locating / spotting my 3:00, 6:00, 9:00, 12:00 positions. Dividing the circumference by 4, using a scaled pipe wrap (easily and cheaply obtained from a LWS) I mark my positions on both ends. A cross reference distance check for symmetry can be made between each quadrant. A last cross check for symmetry of end to end can then be made by (with pipe level to ground) placing a level at the 3:00 and / or 9:00 positions. While this may seem tedious, it is insignificant compared to a skewed door. The pipe wrap is then used to provide a square to pipe layout for the door.
#2 When cutting out the door, leave a web in each corner and one in the middle of each length, ballpark figure of maybe 25% of total length of cut and allow to cool to outside ambient temp. The partial cut will help minimize excess heat warp and the web provides assist of keeping the cut portion in check. #3 Somewhere in the cooling process, some exterior tabs over the already cut portion, top and bottom and as an option, sides as well can be semi welded in place to hold the door in place after the final cut and as an assist in locating door for hinge mounting. With door cooled, finish step 2 removing remaining webs. |
^^^^^^^^^
This must have been one of those times you did not ignore k.a.m.
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For my last contribution on this particular topic of door cutting, I pulled this out of my shop scrap bin. The scrap vendor had no need for it so I saved it just in case of need at the right time and place. "Like Mike say's "sometimes you gotta ignore Kevin"
But most of the time not" I rest my case. 
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Smoker Grill
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Asphalt Cowboy
Newbie
Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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| Posted: Dec 02 2014 Post subject: |
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| Wreckless wrote: | While I seldom worry about a sprung cooker door these days since I have for the most part done away with the nasty task, I offer up 3 suggestons. They were suggested to me, I found them to work quite well, I am passing them along. Vital to me at least, suggestions for the best success in cutting a curved door. . #1 is in reference to the seam. Being a machine weld, I have found thus far that it runs fairly accurately true / parallel to the tank / pipe. I will perform a secondary cross check to verify this but it is then used if found true, for locating / spotting my 3:00, 6:00, 9:00, 12:00 positions. Dividing the circumference by 4, using a scaled pipe wrap (easily and cheaply obtained from a LWS) I mark my positions on both ends. A cross reference distance check for symmetry can be made between each quadrant. A last cross check for symmetry of end to end can then be made by (with pipe level to ground) placing a level at the 3:00 and / or 9:00 positions. While this may seem tedious, it is insignificant compared to a skewed door. The pipe wrap is then used to provide a square to pipe layout for the door.
#2 When cutting out the door, leave a web in each corner and one in the middle of each length, ballpark figure of maybe 25% of total length of cut and allow to cool to outside ambient temp. The partial cut will help minimize excess heat warp and the web provides assist of keeping the cut portion in check. #3 Somewhere in the cooling process, some exterior tabs over the already cut portion, top and bottom and as an option, sides as well can be semi welded in place to hold the door in place after the final cut and as an assist in locating door for hinge mounting. With door cooled, finish step 2 removing remaining webs. Done.
TMI? Naw, don't believe so, not for a first time builder at least, possibly for experienced ones as well. Get this right and you are off to the races. Get it wrong and you will be there awhile resulting in plan "B", a door tweak or worse...plan "C", the Wreckless fix. Neither of the optional plans are desireable and best to stick with plan "A" if at all possible. Good luck to all. JM$.50CW |
Thank You Wreckless |
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Asphalt Cowboy
Newbie
Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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| Posted: Dec 17 2014 Post subject: |
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http://s1368.photobucket.com/user/John_Randel/library/Mobile%20Uploads?sort=3&page=1
Haven't touched my smoker in a couple weeks. Today made some progress. Removed the feet and cut the end cap off. Only took 6 cut off disks. Figured out the tank is 1/4" steel. Next step order the 3/16" Plate and 1/8 " plate. Going to use the 3/16 for the fire box. The 1/8 to make the reverse setup. Also need to order 1.5 angle for the grease run. |
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k.a.m.
BBQ Mega Star
Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26020
Location: Southeast Texas.
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| Posted: Dec 17 2014 Post subject: |
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Very nice work Asphalt Cowboy. The discs made a nice cut. If you can swing it you may look into using 3/16" for the R/F plate as well. The plate takes a beating at the firebox end and warping or premature burn through can occur.
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Always remember slow and steady wins the race.
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Asphalt Cowboy
Newbie
Joined: 29 Oct 2014
Posts: 32
Location: Glendale Az.
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| Posted: Dec 18 2014 Post subject: |
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| k.a.m. wrote: | | Very nice work Asphalt Cowboy. The discs made a nice cut. If you can swing it you may look into using 3/16" for the R/F plate as well. The plate takes a beating at the firebox end and warping or premature burn through can occur. |
Didn't think burn through would be a problem. I planned on installing a defuser plate. That i know that will take a beating. But I love the idea KAM.
Also I was thinking allowing one of the R/F plate to removable. This will allow for cleaning and mods if needed.
Instead of running the grease run into a trap. What about running it back in to the burn box for some extra smoke? Friend suggested that. |
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