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bbq trailer question

 
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speed70
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Joined: 07 Jul 2011
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Location: georgia

PostPosted: Tue Aug 28 12 11:45 am    Post subject: bbq trailer question Reply with quote

i have a 8.5x18 enclosed trailer were using for our bbq comps we attend im wanting to put roof air on it but im getting mixed opinions about how i can power it the camper place that sells the units says i have to use 30 amp power source but theres a couple of guys says they use a heavy drop cord with standerd 110 house plug in i just dont want to burn up the unit it wouldnt be a big deal but alot of the comps we go to dont have 30 amp service they only have standerd 110 plug ins
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SoEzzy
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28 12 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The quickest and easiest solution is called a...















Generator! Wink Laughing Wink
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speed70
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28 12 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well the only thing with using a generater is were there 2 or 3 days mainly 2 days im thinking that would be to much use on a generater plus the gas to run that long and the noise through the night
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 28 12 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

speed70, you can buy or build a 30 Amp extension cord.
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speed70
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29 12 1:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the reason im asking this question is at the bbq comps we attend has only 20 amp service to connect to and the camper place that sells the air said it what work with less than 30 amp service the adapter is the weak link but there is guys there that have the units on there trailers but not so sure there using the air or not im sorry i wasnt clear before im just stressing out because i bought a unit online paid 117 shipping and to return it i have to pay that to send it back then im out 240 dollars and dont have air
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ifnyakin
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29 12 3:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dont buy one of the cheap adapters they will work for a while but then they start to melt been there done that.

like k.a.m said buy or build a 30 Amp extension cord.

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/campers-world/110v-economy-series-temporary-pigtail-adapter-30f-15m-18in/coa14240

there is one
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SoEzzy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29 12 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you planning on using it 24/7?

Most Air conditioning units take the big pull of power to get going, but they don't use as much to actually run, I've seen folks at competitions trip the Octopus splitter box because they want to run 2 AC's.

If you want to run something that's above the standard, you can supplement it with a generator and a couple of batteries... it is my understanding that you can use the battery pack and an inverter along with the draw from the power cable to get your AC running.

If I needed power I would look at a generator, there are people who run rotisserie pits at competitions, I've seen the power go down at 2 or 3 different times and it screws up their cook.

If you go to a contest and they guarantee power, you should be equipped to supply it, most of the smaller contests I attend locally say on the entry forms, "if you need power... please bring it with you"!
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speed70
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29 12 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yes i plan on using the air the whole weekend i roll in friday am then pull out sat evening around 7 or 8 pm i plan on only using 1 ac unit and a 30 amp lifeline and put an adapter at the 20 amp plug in the event provides im actaully thinking putting a nice 20 amp end on my 30 amp lifeline that would be better and the only other thing i run is 2 4ft flurosent lights switched seperate so i can turn them on 1 at a time
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SoEzzy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29 12 6:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't do electric but I thought you need access to both sides of a bus board to draw 30 Amps, in which case you wont get a 30 amp draw from a 20 amp feed.

Check it all out with a qualified certified electrician... I've never even played one on TV, Oh and I didn't stay in a Holiday Inn last night!
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GF
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29 12 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

speed70, is the unit you bought 120 volt or 240 volt @ 30 amps?
I think your getting confused with volts and amps, two seperate beasts. Shocked
You should be able to get a generator to suit your needs, a little more info would help fix your problem.

There should be a name plate on the A/C that has the voltage and amp specs., check it out and we'll get you squared away. Very Happy Wink
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speed70
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29 12 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the unit i bought is 120 volts dou therm brisk air 13500 btu rooftop like a camper uses that they say has to have a 30 amp service which is 120 volt but a regular household plug in is a 110 volt 20 amp my question is how does the other guys out there use these air units on a 20 amp service a generater is out of the question because were at the bbq comps for 2 to 3 days
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SoEzzy
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 29 12 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

speed70 wrote:
a generater is out of the question because were at the bbq comps for 2 to 3 days


I don't get why a generator is out of the question?

When I go to a BBQ competition loaded for bear, I take a 38' diesel pusher RV with a 7.5KW diesel generator that runs off the fuel tank and will run for a week if I need to use them.

I have friends with gas generators and gas RV's they use their generators too, some have the EU Honda series some have the noisier EB series, they carry a gas can to refuel, but they can get 7 or 8 hours continuous use out of a standard tank, and 7 or 8 refills out of a 4 or 5 gallon can.

I would test the AC in the garage / on the ground, before you cut a hole in the roof, plug in a RV electrical adaptor http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/15-amp-male-to-30-amp-female-adapter/57719 if it works with one in your garage all may be well.

If you have a circuit with a 20 amp breaker, test it on this one, as it's going to represent the closest to the "standard" competition camp, and if it's going to trip the breaker the chances are you'll trip the ones at the competition too.

Good luck, consult a real electrician, or an RV / AC specialist, they should be more in tune with an answer to you question than we are.
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daddywoofdawg
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30 12 12:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have 30 amp service that at most places I have to use a plug adpater and plug into 20 amp I use my A/C and was told it only uses about 15 amps.the problem you will run into with the 20 amp is if you use hotplates/roasters etc,they can pop the breaker.and the camper A/C's don't really cool down like a home A/C.Yes they will make it cooler than outside but you won't be freezing your but off with just one.
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speed70
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30 12 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i dropped off my trailer today at the camper dealer there gonna install the air and electrical package i actaully made them a offer on a new prevost while i was there so there suppost to let me know in the am tommorow if there gonna take it
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30 12 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Embarassed
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daddywoofdawg
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30 12 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate to say it pitmaker but that isn't really so.There are 30 amp 110v twist lock but most trailers have 30 amp 110v rv plugs.

http://www.rv-dreams.com/rv-electrical.html
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fish&q
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31 12 12:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I solved that problem by buying a portable ac form HD.The only problem I had with it cooling was when it was about 100 outside.
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Mr Tony's BBQ
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03 12 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have accidentally left my air on when leaving a vend, got home, plugged into my garage 20 amp circuit with adapter to my 50 amp plug, on a 25' 12 gauge extension cord - air, fridge, water heater and lights all kicked on at once - breaker did not pop!! Not something I would recommend doing on a regular basis, but you should be fine if your not trying to draw 50 amps on said 20 amp circuit!! Embarassed
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