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Wiring New Trailer

 
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BANDYDEN
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Joined: 27 Dec 2008
Posts: 34
Location: McDonald,Tennessee

PostPosted: Jun 12 2011    Post subject: Wiring New Trailer Reply with quote

Going to get my Lang 84 tandem trailer wired and was wondering what kind of hookup you have to have comimg into the trailer. I am getting a generator but haven't decided which one or brand yet.I saw some of you guys post lately about generators. Will there need to be a different hookup for a generator and one for power coming in from a different source, like running from a building or business? Not going to use a lot of appliances,small fridge and air conditioner may be the biggest draw of power and some outlets around the counter top for small stuff.
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BBQMAN
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Joined: 13 Jun 2005
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Location: Florida

PostPosted: Jun 13 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll give you a quick overview as an industrial machine builder and residential electrician, but if you are not familiar with wiring hire an electrician to do the job properly.

You will need to figure on your total amp usage for all your devices, and the number of breakers needed in said panel.

That will tell you what your service box size needs to be.

My trailer has a 50 amp panel, but some that use heavy electrical needs need a 100 or bigger.

The wiring size to the devices needs to be compatible with the use, and the corresponding breaker.

You cannot (safely) put a device on improperly sized wire/breaker combinations.

Any outlet in a wet location needs to be on a GFCI.

The exception to that is refrigeration units that should not be on GFCI.

Externally located wiring should be run in conduit and not exposed.

You can get a book on basic wiring at Home Depot, or look on-line for a charts and usage info on proper wiring techniques.
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Bestiverhad
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Joined: 22 Oct 2009
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PostPosted: Jun 13 2011    Post subject: Re: Wiring New Trailer Reply with quote

BANDYDEN wrote:
Will there need to be a different hookup for a generator and one for power coming in from a different source, like running from a building or business?


The answer that you didn't get from BBQMAN, Very Happy is, no.
You use the same cable, whether you hook to line power, or a generator.
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BBQMAN
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Joined: 13 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Jun 13 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that is correct (you got me on that one) Razz

As in a RV park, the plug you hook into needs to correspond to your intended use.

I.E. in that RV park they have 30 amp 110, and 50 amp 220 as choices, depending on needs.

You will not plug into a 15 amp outlet needing 30 amps of juice and not have the breaker (in the fixed location) blow.

The term "shore power' is generally used when supplying juice to a mobile anything from a fixed source.

Once again, the two need to be matched to the service requirements of the mobile, and all of it's devices.

My 50 amp service is provided by a lead wire for shore use rated at 50 amps.

I only use 30 amps @115v volts for my rigs needs.

So the lead wire is over-sized- which is a good thing as opposed to being undersized.

Load increases as well over distance, and anything over 100' needs to be one size bigger on wire gauge (or it should be).

There is a little more involved here than first blush, but for a simple power set-up that you describe it shouldn't be beyond your abilities to get the job done right if you do a bit of homework.

Killswitch should be along shortly (short pun intended) to lend you a hand as well, or contact him for his 2 pennies worth if wish.
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Jarhead
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PostPosted: Jun 13 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
The exception to that is refrigeration units that should not be on GFCI.

Or smokers. Wink Don't even go there. Embarassed
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BBQMAN
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Joined: 13 Jun 2005
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Location: Florida

PostPosted: Jun 13 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jarhead wrote:
Quote:
The exception to that is refrigeration units that should not be on GFCI.

Or smokers. Wink Don't even go there. Embarassed


Something to be said for cookers that don't need to be plugged in, ehh Gunny! Wink Razz

Sorry my man, just too easy to pass up on you pellet head pimp's. Very Happy
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Louie
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Joined: 25 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: Jun 13 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use a 30 amp 4 pin nema connector as the main generator/landline plug in. Whatever you use make sure your generator has same imput/output connector.
I also made a pigtail to use when not needing the generator from the 4 pin to a 3 pin std plug, say when I want to just run the fridge when I'm parked in my driveway for example.

I installed a 100 amp service with 20 amp breakers, used bx wiring and gfci receptacles. Put in as many as you can cause you will use them down the road. I later installed three all wx exterior straight blade receptacles for added landlines & exterior lights, etc. Nothing worst than running a cord thru a doorway or a window!!

But first and foremost have a qualified person do it or at the very least guide you every step of the way..
Good Luck
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BANDYDEN
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Joined: 27 Dec 2008
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Location: McDonald,Tennessee

PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys for the info .I was going to try wiring the trailer myself but decided not to if I could find someone to do it. Luckily my sisters new boyfriend is an electrician, He looked it over last night and said he would do it.
One thing we were wondering about was running the wires through the metal frame work. The frame work for the walls is 2"x2" metal. Would there need to be some sort of sleeve or conduit running through it around the wiring? Worried about it rubbing the wire while traveling. Sad
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Louie
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Joined: 25 Oct 2010
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PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

BANDYDEN wrote:
Thanks guys for the info .I was going to try wiring the trailer myself but decided not to if I could find someone to do it. Luckily my sisters new boyfriend is an electrician, He looked it over last night and said he would do it.
One thing we were wondering about was running the wires through the metal frame work. The frame work for the walls is 2"x2" metal. Would there need to be some sort of sleeve or conduit running through it around the wiring? Worried about it rubbing the wire while traveling. Sad


You can use bx or mc (metal sheathed) wire ensuring you clamp it here and there, or use reg wire with plastic or rubber grommets. Your electrician will know about it. Wink
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jess
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PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Some find it hard to believe but over sized wiring is more dangerous than undersized....
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Jarhead
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PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jess, I've never heard that before about wires. Confused
Can you give us an example as to why?

Most mfgrs recommend 14/2 with ground for lighting circuits. I always use 12/2. I like the extra safety factor. For a few cents more per foot it is worth it.

If we're talking breakers, then, yes, that is very dangerous. Normally associated with a new A/C unit that requires a 30 amp breaker and you have a 50 in the box. Bad news and chances are it will void your warranty.
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daddywoofdawg
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Joined: 22 Jul 2008
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PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have interior walls already in,or don't want to take away any structural strength from the framing,run a channel down the sides of the wall down at the floor and wall meet.I think it's called a run.you won't notice the couple of inches it takes.and yes put more plug In's than your need.and think about what you may want later,I.E fryers,overhead vent for cooking inside,,etc.
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BBQMAN
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PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

jess wrote:
Some find it hard to believe but over sized wiring is more dangerous than undersized....


Actually that can be true, to a point.

Heavy wire does offer it's own resistance to current flow.

But the issue is usually undersized wire attached to an over-sized breaker.

The wire burns through due to load (it basically turns into a toaster element) and the associated breaker doesn't fail.

Then your shizzle burns down.

Gunny- I use 12-2 with ground for most "normal" AC applications like outlets, lighting etc. and it's good for most 15/20 amp breaker situations.

Code also states that you can (for the most part, with exceptions) provide one breaker and daisy-chained wiring on up to 10 outlets. I like a little more separation in my systems, and breakers really are not that expensive.

If you do a lot of commercial work through the expense could add up.

Things like microwaves, dishwashers/disposals, fridge, AC units etc all need their own breakers.

Back on topic- good idea, take the sisters new beau up on the wiring.

And yes, Loneranger gave you good advice on the bx. I would not run unprotected romex through sharp steel tubing without grommets and such at all the entrances/exits of said tubing.
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GF
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Joined: 30 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

BANDYDEN, using the boy friend is a good idea. Article 551 or 552 in the Nat. Elec. code should cover everything. I don't know what your set up looks like so I don't know the best wiring method. I would suggest paying extra attention to proper grounding, both equipment and generator, also if your electrician is friendly with the local inspector, I would check with them. They have final say, and may have additional requirements. Good luck.
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daddywoofdawg
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PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most states required the 12-2 for kitchen areas,and your trailer is like a kitchen.Always have more outlets than you need,and more breaker space even if there blank.
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Bestiverhad
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PostPosted: Jun 14 2011    Post subject: Reply with quote

My understanding is the size of the breaker determines the size of the wire.
15 amp = 14/2
20 amp = 12/2
30 amp = 10/2
Make sure that any electrical device as well as anything that is metal, is grounded.
I used 12/2 BX on all my 20 amp circuits.

I was also told that the rule of thumb is, if you can reach the outlet and any source of water at the same time, it has to be a GFCI outlet, or breaker.

I used 8/3 w/ground SO cord for my panel feeder cable.
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