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UDS setups - intakes

 
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BriGreentea
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Joined: 20 May 2010
Posts: 600
Location: FORT WORTH, TX

PostPosted: Sun Jul 10 11 12:49 am    Post subject: UDS setups - intakes Reply with quote

I'm looking into building a new UDS that will have a cover to keep out the rain and keep it nice looking. Right now I don't have wheels and using a bunghole lid. The exhaust has a 1" pipe attached and really not convinced it is enough exhaust.

One issue (kind of) is my intake setups. I had 2 3/4 caps and one was a vertical pipe going all the way up with a 3/4 ball valve. I never thought it had enough air going down in it and still had to have it all the way open and have one the caps open. Then took it off and tried the 3/4 ball valve in the middle but still had to have one of the 3/4 caps open. Then I tried going to a 1/2 ball valve and sometimes I could get it up to 225-250 but then would die down to 170 and would have to take a 3/4 cap off. That was never my intention. I've tried all sorts of ways starting up the pit and really didn't matter at the end. I don't think it has enough 02 going in. But then made me wonder if I took off the other cap on the opposite side of the bunghole just to try more exhaust and then then smoking some ribs I left the 1 inch ball valve around 1/4 open with both caps closed and stayed in between 225-250 the whole cook. So I"m hoping on my next one to go back to my original setup I hope with only the 3 3/4 holes and a 3/4 valve. I'm just skeptical about using a vertical pipe again but I did save it so I could use it if I wanted to.

With that said I was interested in the Weber kettle lid. The exhaust looks like it would be better due to mostly I would assume the dome and the smoke could escape easier and perhaps the UDS would stay hotter. Before I did think of the option on my first UDS to use a flat lid with 1/2 holes all over it like many have done however the covering where the only place I can use my UDS would rain all over it and that would create havoc on food. I also like the kettle lid idea because I can make some easy brackets for the lid to the drum so I don't have to lift and hold it. I think I got the idea how to create the lip inside of the drum for it to fit. Very glad I bought step drill bits for cheap and will come in handy again for my next UDS project. I'm going to keep the paint simple but something glossy and pretty and try to find a unique color but nothing like creating a Dallas Cowboys UDS or having a Mazda logo on it. That would be cool but I'm into doing that. Smile
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71ragtop
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10 11 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my UDS Weber lid I used the step drill bit and made the vent holes as big as possible so that when closed they still cover to choke out the fuel for the next cook.I personally think you need a fourth 3/4 hole for intake. I put a rack of ABT's and a rack of moink balls in yesterday and with the cooker in 90 degree sunlight I had to run everything full open to get up to temp 2 valves and 2 caps.
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GF
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Joined: 30 Apr 2011
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 10 11 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BriGreentea, I think the weber lid should work well for you.
I also agree with 71ragtop about 4 3/4 intakes, your better off lookin at em than lookin for em.
I would also ditch the vertical pipe, more elbows =more problems in my thoughts.
Good luck with whatever you go with.
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RollinontheRvr
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11 11 3:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am using 1.5" flat bar for the ring for my Weber lid in my UDS. Which by the way is still in progress. Shocked
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SoEzzy
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12 11 1:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know you won't read this, or understand it if you read it, or apply it if you understand it, but here goes nothing! Wink Laughing Rolling Eyes

http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=49419
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12TH AV SMOKERS
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12 11 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree in ditching the upright pipe. I used one on my first UDS and found it worked much better having the 3/4" ball valve sticking straight out the bottom. I noticed smoke coming out of it once so it was removed right then.
Ball valve is attached only to the nipple thats screwed into the barrel. I use (3) 3/4" pipe nipples ( 1" dia holes ) and can get temps up to 450°ish.
My basket sits 3" up off the bottom. I've used flat top lids and Weber lids with the same intake setup and have no problems runing anywhere from 100° - 450°
It's likely you need more exhaust.
On mine the flat lid bung hole allows a threaded 2" pipe ( 2.37 dia) for an exhaust. The Weber lid I kept standard and works great.
Yesterday it was warm and muggy but mine ran at 240° for 7 hours with one nipple uncapped and the ball valve 50% open.

Here's my layout

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BriGreentea
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Joined: 20 May 2010
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13 11 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just curious did you use a water pan for that uds? That's how mine is set up. I have experimented with both using not a pan with the grate and also nothing. If anything the lower grate comes in handy to me for direct heat cooking by moving the charcoal basket up to that rack. I've been debating coming up with something else creative and not have two racks but I think I will have two.

I think I have a theory on the flat bunghole lid. The bottom of my lid is caked after many cooks. The smoke goes straight up and perhaps fighting to get out towards one 2" area. Perhaps the 8-10 1/2 inch holes on a flat lid is better for exhaust but the downside is if it rains your screwed. Now that I have a tall canopy on my patio it's not quite as big of a deal but that's why I didn't go that route in the first place. Changing my 3/4 valve to a 1/2 valve did little to nothing. On most cooks I still had to have one of the 3/4 caps open. So I hope with the design and logic of the weber dome would have much better exhaust which sounds like it does.
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13 11 7:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dome lid will have nothing to do with the efficiency of the UDS or the ability to achieve more heat unless the lid leaks around the seam in fact if you do not drill out the holes as 71ragtop mentioned you will experience a cold cooker because it will not be balanced to the intake. The basic UDS as mentioned in SoEzzy's thread works and that is the bottom line. The fact that you are experiencing crud on the top of your drum after some cooks tells me and others that your doing or have something wrong. A 3/4" ball valve is larger than a 1/2" ball valve so if you were trying to increase air intake why did you reduce the air flow by 1/4? Again as mentioned four 3/4" holes are often needed depending on the weather of the day of the cook, on every UDS I have built depending on the wind and where I have the cooker setup effects its performance its not an oven with perfect every time results. Instead of over thinking the basic design take a look around you and see if maybe there is no wind available for the cooker or maybe the day you achieved what you wanted it was windy and dry. Last Sunday I cooked a turkey on my 22" WSM with a domed lid there was no wind and very humid I had to struggle to get the cooker to 300° and maintain it.These are just my thoughts. Wink
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12TH AV SMOKERS
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13 11 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BriGreentea
I very rarely use a water pan or diffuser. Like you mentioned I use that grate height more often to set my coal basket on and use the UDS as a grill. My first UDS is used almost exclusively as a grill since my Weber Kettle rusted away and I haven't replaced it. I've been hopiing I'd receive one as a gift Laughing Like I've mentioned all of mine only have (3) intakes and I can get temps well high enough to make pizza.
I agree with k.a.m. on the reduction of the ball valve. Not sure why you'd go smaller to achieve higher temps ???
I've never expierienced the problems k.a.m or 71ragtop and others have mentioned in regards to trouble getting these up to higher temps. Not in the cold not or in the hot humid days we have here lately.
Nor have I ever had to drill out the vent holes on my domed lids.
As far as just drilling holes into the lid and your concerns about rain getting in I know Teleking has suggested drilling the vent holes around the circumference of the barrel up near the top ring to keep the rain out. That seems like a good idea to remedy that problem

I am a bit confused because you mentioned your lid has a 1" pipe but you also reference the 2" bunghole? So you have two exhausts open on your lid or just one?
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BluDawg
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14 11 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I left this topic alone as the questions have been answered many times However I have to ask is Ira BigGreenteas long lost brother the Gene pool looks to be the same depth Shallow Rolling Eyes
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