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power draft controller(pic heavy w/ parts list) updated 4-11
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scabman



Joined: 06 May 2011
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Mon May 09 11 9:17 pm    Post subject: Electric burners Reply with quote

Ske1eter
Thanks so much for your reply. My problem is I have no electrical experience and can't read the manuel and understand how to set this up. I may take a copy of the manuel to someone and see if they can see how it might work with what I have. If not I may have to drop back and punt.
Thanks Again!!!
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ske1eter



Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Tue May 10 11 7:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, if you can get someone who knows a bit about the wiring, you should be fine. It's not difficult at all. It seems to me that either application example 10.1 or 10.2 should get you started.
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txinga



Joined: 20 Jun 2006
Posts: 24
Location: Woodstock, GA

PostPosted: Tue Jun 07 11 5:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I completed my box. Still need to put together the bell housing for the fan though.

I used an Auber SYL-2362 for the PID. I added a regular 120 outlet and SSR to the mix. One side of the outlet is always hot, the other switched by the PID. This way I can plug in a PC fan or down the road power a heating element if I ever decide to convert my other smoker (gas).

One other thing I wanted was remote alerts for low and high temps. I picked up an X10 Door/Window sensor and remote chime on ebay for about $7 shipped. I wired the sensor normally closed (NC) contact to the low temp alarm of the PID to open the NC contact. When this happens the sensor sends a signal to the X10 system which runs a macro that powers up the chime. I'm hoping I can wire the two alarm outputs on the PID in series to fire the door sensor on low or high temps so I'll know that something is amiss. This way I can catch a nap indoors when smoking overnight.

http://www.evernote.com/shard/s27/sh/9294265a-40fd-4881-8ef4-92669aea59d7/008b79af12db7db43591be03c11b55e7
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ske1eter



Joined: 06 May 2007
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Tue Jul 05 11 6:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got to try out my controller. First, I don't think that my fan is large enough to push the volume of air needed to make a difference.

The weird thing was that I cooked all day Sat. and it took a long time form my turkeys to finish and I wasn't sure why. This caused me to have to fire up the pit on Sun. as well so that I could cook my fatties. I watched the smoke go from yellow, white, blue, to clear. The controller said that I was still at 220 so I let it ride for a while. Finally, I decided to stoke it with another log only to find out that my coals were mostly gone.

I had a wireless temperature probe and put it in the cooker to check the controller temp. Turned out that the controller was reading 25-30 degrees higher than it actually was. After seeing that, I adjusted the controller bias to read correctly. That explained the turkey cooking problem as I was only cooking at 190-200 instead of my expected 220-230.

I don't know what has caused this problem as the controller was checked for accuracy in boiling water. Today I checked the controller temp at room temperature, and leaving the bias in place, and it says the room was 53 degrees rather than about 80. The only thing different in my build vs. the one that killswitch did was that I didn't use a piece of temp probe cable for the internal wiring.

More investigation is needed.........plus a larger fan.
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breugel



Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06 11 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do control systems for a living. I made a similar set up for my electric Brinkman and it works like a champ. I am using a RTD instead of a thermocouple and the one I am using is designed to measure air temp. The end has very little mass and it is mounted deep in the cooker not near the outside. I did not like the thermocouples because they had to much mass and I would not use a thermowell as that would make it worse. just my 2 cents
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breugel



Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06 11 4:47 am    Post subject: Re: PID to control power to elec. burner Reply with quote

scabman wrote:
killswitch;
Can the PID control be set up to turn elec. burners on and off to control the temp? If so can you tell me wht to do? I have all the parts in your thread before I realized that it wasn't set up for an elec. cooker.
Thanks for any help you can provide!!!!



Yes you can just ditch the 12V power supply and get a SSR (Solid State Relay) and put in its place. I did this with my electric Brinkman.

Here is one good for 25 Amps

LINK!
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scabman



Joined: 06 May 2011
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed Jul 13 11 11:12 pm    Post subject: Diagram Reply with quote

Breugel
Is there anyway you could send a dighram of you set up so I can see how this works?
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breugel



Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Thu Jul 14 11 1:18 am    Post subject: Re: Diagram Reply with quote

scabman wrote:
Breugel
Is there anyway you could send a dighram of you set up so I can see how this works?


Sure when i get home tonight I will cad it out.
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breugel



Joined: 05 Jul 2011
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Thu Jul 14 11 2:36 am    Post subject: Re: Diagram Reply with quote

scabman wrote:
Breugel
Is there anyway you could send a diagram of you set up so I can see how this works?



Here you go... I used the Omron controller because it was free to me. The cheaper Chinese ones should work fine. I used a RTD because it is what I had and the one I had is made to measure air temps. It has a very low mass.

http://web.comporium.net/~tross/Drawing1.pdf
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scabman



Joined: 06 May 2011
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15 11 10:37 pm    Post subject: controller Reply with quote

Thanks so much for the info.
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Johnds
Newbie


Joined: 03 May 2011
Posts: 43

PostPosted: Wed Jul 20 11 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the terminally cheap, Lightobject.com is Coldfusion on ebay. If you order from them on ebay they usually throw in a wired thermocouple with the auction. They are pretty cheap though.

John
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Johnds
Newbie


Joined: 03 May 2011
Posts: 43

PostPosted: Wed Jul 20 11 7:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One other thing, for good fans, check out a computer surplus store. I have a Weird Stuff near my home, it is handy. 12 volt fans of all sizes. http://www.weirdstuff.com/

John
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Flash Gordan
Newbie


Joined: 25 Jul 2011
Posts: 38
Location: Southern NJ not to be confused with Northern NJ or the Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Wed Jul 27 11 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey killswitch505, does the PID controller need to be the one used or can I find a different one? The reason I ask is that I found cheaper ones on ebay. LINK! Is there any features I need to look out for?
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PaleAle
BBQ Fan


Joined: 17 Apr 2011
Posts: 206
Location: Colonial Heights, VA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 05 11 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what I used for fan 2 for 1 in case 1 craps out on me... LINK
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cgrooms



Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Tue Aug 09 11 1:46 am    Post subject: PID 2362B wiring for alarm and fan Reply with quote

Hello all,
I have been following this site for some time now and want to say this is the best BBQ siste I have seen. I am almost done with my PID control box and have just one question.
1. Using the 2362B(see link below), I have the fan and power all wired up and ready to go but I purchased an alarm to add to the controller. Does anyone know how I can connect the alrm so it operates when a low temp is hit? Also any programming would be great al well.


The PID controller I am using

LINK

The alarm from them as well

LINK
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PaleAle
BBQ Fan


Joined: 17 Apr 2011
Posts: 206
Location: Colonial Heights, VA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 09 11 4:59 am    Post subject: Re: PID 2362B wiring for alarm and fan Reply with quote

cgrooms wrote:
Hello all,
I have been following this site for some time now and want to say this is the best BBQ siste I have seen. I am almost done with my PID control box and have just one question.
1. Using the 2362B(see link below), I have the fan and power all wired up and ready to go but I purchased an alarm to add to the controller. Does anyone know how I can connect the alrm so it operates when a low temp is hit? Also any programming would be great al well.


The PID controller I am using

LINK

The alarm from them as well

LINK

This is assuming that you are using the SSR output with an SSR for the fan.

press set enter code 0089 and set outy =2
to set your alarm temp press set enter code 0001 and set AH2 to the temp you want alarm to come on and set AL2 to the temp you want alarm to go off
Example: AH2=224 and AL2=225 this will make the alarm come on @224 and go off @ 225 that you have wired to lugs 13&14.
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cgrooms



Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Tue Aug 09 11 5:07 am    Post subject: PID controller Reply with quote

Actually I was not aware I needed a SSR, also I am using a RTD sensor. Where and what type of SSR do I need? Is this something I can get from Radio Shack or do I have to order it online?
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PaleAle
BBQ Fan


Joined: 17 Apr 2011
Posts: 206
Location: Colonial Heights, VA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 10 11 4:44 am    Post subject: Re: PID controller Reply with quote

cgrooms wrote:
Actually I was not aware I needed a SSR, also I am using a RTD sensor. Where and what type of SSR do I need? Is this something I can get from Radio Shack or do I have to order it online?

You don't have to use an SSR
set outy = 1
hook fan to lugs 13&14
hook alarm to lugs 4&5
set AH1 = 224 & AL1 225 (this will alarm at 224 and turn off at 225)
Good wiring diagrams here near bottom of document LINK
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cgrooms



Joined: 09 Aug 2011
Posts: 3

PostPosted: Thu Aug 11 11 4:51 am    Post subject: PID Reply with quote

Got hooked up last night and works great. Thanks for the help
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OmahaRed
Newbie


Joined: 12 May 2011
Posts: 96

PostPosted: Fri Aug 12 11 1:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is definitely one of the most informative threads i've come across on the ring. keep up the good work and thanks for posting for us
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