cutting pipe

[hillbily75]

what is my best option to cut the doors on my smoker build. i have a 3/8"x30" pipe for my cooking chamber.. getting ready to get r done.

[Wreckless]

I used a sawzall to cut the doors leaving a connecting web in place. I welded strap for the door seal in place to hold the doors in shape to avoid warpage and then lastly removed the connecting web.

[purplewg]

3/8 is pretty thick. I cut my propane tank doors in with a grinder with cutoff wheels and it worked really well but my tank is not 3/8 inch.

If you have a good steady hand you can torch them. Maybe find someone with a plasma cutter and pay him a few bucks to get a really good cut.
_________________
The Wild Pig build.
My UDS Build.

Don't squat with your spurs on.........

[k.a.m.]

hillbily75, on 3/8'' pipe I use a 0-1-101 tip on my Victor torch with the tip clean it will cut about a 3/32'' kerf, the secret is a clean tip. I would leave about 1'' in the top and bottom and all four corners, let the door cool completely then come back and cut the rest out. There is less chance of warping this way.
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Hybrid Cooker

[hillbily75]

Ok i got the ends cut i cut them with a sawzall it worked great now my question is how big do i need to make my doors i was thinking 24 inch tall but after i taped it off on the cooker they look awfull big????? what do u all think. too big or ok

[purplewg]

On round tanks I like my doors to be cut down the front to the half way point. At the top I come forward off top dead center just a couple inches.
_________________
The Wild Pig build.
My UDS Build.

Don't squat with your spurs on.........

[Wreckless]

Just be sure to pull the sawzall at as much angle away from verticle as possible. This will allow you to keep the sawzall in line. To close to verticle and you will end up with a wavy cut

[k.a.m.]

hillbily75, like purplewg said on that diam. you could go 2 and 3 or 2 and 4 and easily have two sets of grates.
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Hybrid Cooker

[hillbily75]

[k.a.m.]

hillbily75, I would go with 1 and 3. If you are trying to lighten up the door. But lay it out and try to visualize what it will be like. make some marks on the end of your pipe in relation to your horizontal cuts, that way you can pretty much know where your grates will lay. and you can adjust if need be.
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Hybrid Cooker

[mrcustomsteel]

Here's another opinion to confuse you on doors and clocks.

On a 30" pipe a 3:00 door bottom wastes a good bit of cooking space below that grate. You might think about lowering it about 3"-4" closer to 4:00. On top, if you will go back toward 11:00 a couple of inches from top center (12:00), less rain will drip in over the door flange. Those 3/8" doors are going to be heavy enough to need counterweights so a few more inches won't matter that much.

Like K.a.m says, draw it out first several ways and take a look.

You must have one heck of a sawzall to zip through 3/8"!
_________________
D. Tillery
Texan transplanted in Billings, MT
www.mrcustomsteel.com

[Wreckless]

[quote="hillbily75"]

[hillbily75]

thanks Wreckless thats what i was doing with the saw i was just being slow and couldnt figure out what u meant. thanks

[/quote]On a 30" pipe a 3:00 door bottom wastes a good bit of cooking space below that grate. You might think about lowering it about 3"-4" closer to 4:00. On top, if you will go back toward 11:00 a couple of inches from top center (12:00), less rain will drip in over the door flange. Those 3/8" doors are going to be heavy enough to need counterweights so a few more inches won't matter that much.


I am acually going about 330 or so. but as far as 1100 i think the more you go back past 12 the more heat u loose when u open the door so if im right i want to go about 100 my opition not an expert by any means. let me know what u think

[solanabeacher]

I cut my cooking chamber door out with a cutting wheel. It worked but I have to grind a bunch off the edges so it wouldn't bind. My firebox, I ziped off with a torch. Both worked but needed plenty of grind work. Where I F-ed up was when I put the trim on. Didn't get it bent just right then it over heated while I welded it. So my doors are both sprung out about 1/4 inch at the bottom. Next time I'll get it right?

[mrcustomsteel]

You will lose all your heat anyway when you open the door. What saves you there is the 3/8"think steel. The only problem with 1:00 is you will lose a little room on the top shelf. It's not that much. Lang doors are at 1:00 but there's one on each side.
_________________
D. Tillery
Texan transplanted in Billings, MT
www.mrcustomsteel.com

[hillbily75]

how does this tape job look?????

[k.a.m.]

hillbily75, looks good to me I would like to know how long it takes to get the doors cut using the sawzall. I have never cut that thick of metal with mine, but it looks like it is doing a fine job.
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Hybrid Cooker

[purplewg]

I recently bought a six pack of steel cutting sawzall blades and they ran around $15-$17. I bet you go through more than a six pack cutting those doors.

Keep us posted.
_________________
The Wild Pig build.
My UDS Build.

Don't squat with your spurs on.........

[hillbily75]

well ill tell you i cut all the way around both ends and across the top of that door with two blades and the reason i changed the first on was i broke it. if you use the lenox gold blades and go slow and use a little wd-40 they last a long time lenox are the best blades and dewalt is #2 in my opinion. thanx for the advice on the doors guys you all are lots of help
well going out to cut some more need to get some hinges welded on what kind do u all think would be best?????

[k.a.m.]

hillbily75, I like to build my own hinges using 1/2'' pipe and 1/2'' rod.
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Hybrid Cooker