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Build Your Own Upright Drum Smoker
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purplewg
BBQ Super Pro


Joined: 27 Jun 2008
Posts: 1300
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26 11 1:22 am    Post subject: Re: Gas UDS Reply with quote

staylor711 wrote:
I have built 3 UDS so far with gas and the work great. It stays at the temp you set it at and no need for adjusting. I cooked a 15lbs ham in the one I use in 11 hours and when the skin was taken off I pulled the meat off very easy. Here is what I done.

4- 3/4in holes evenly spaced 1 1/4 up from the bottom of the drum
1 -1 1/2 hole in the lid
1- hole for the burner on the side
1- small propane burner ( I make my own burners 3/4 black gas pipe)
1- wood chip basket
4- 1/4" holes evenly spaced for the meat rack 9" from top of the drum
Get the same meat rack as a regular USD. Put the burner 1" off of the bottom of the drum.
Light the burner, put the chip basket in, and watch the smoke rise.


I have thought about putting my turkey frier burner in the bottom of the UDS I have started with a metal shelf above it for wood to sit and smolder on. I wonder if there are any safety issues with doing this. I heard somewhere someone mentioned the propane bomb without proper air. Any ideas if my turkey burner would work or not?
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sassage
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Joined: 13 Apr 2011
Posts: 77
Location: Kansas City

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26 11 2:10 am    Post subject: Re: Gas UDS Reply with quote

purplewg wrote:
staylor711 wrote:
I have built 3 UDS so far with gas and the work great. It stays at the temp you set it at and no need for adjusting. I cooked a 15lbs ham in the one I use in 11 hours and when the skin was taken off I pulled the meat off very easy. Here is what I done.

4- 3/4in holes evenly spaced 1 1/4 up from the bottom of the drum
1 -1 1/2 hole in the lid
1- hole for the burner on the side
1- small propane burner ( I make my own burners 3/4 black gas pipe)
1- wood chip basket
4- 1/4" holes evenly spaced for the meat rack 9" from top of the drum
Get the same meat rack as a regular USD. Put the burner 1" off of the bottom of the drum.
Light the burner, put the chip basket in, and watch the smoke rise.


I have thought about putting my turkey frier burner in the bottom of the UDS I have started with a metal shelf above it for wood to sit and smolder on. I wonder if there are any safety issues with doing this. I heard somewhere someone mentioned the propane bomb without proper air. Any ideas if my turkey burner would work or not?


read this about the safety concerns/precautions and potential bad outcomes when working with propane...I think a lot of that info can easily translate for UDS

http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43117
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purplewg
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Joined: 27 Jun 2008
Posts: 1300
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Tue Jul 26 11 2:33 am    Post subject: Re: Gas UDS Reply with quote

sassage wrote:


read this about the safety concerns/precautions and potential bad outcomes when working with propane...I think a lot of that info can easily translate for UDS

http://www.thesmokering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43117


I read that a couple years back sassage and thanks. I look at some of these small vertical gas smokers you can buy and I see no difference in safety measures than I would have with my turkey burner or a purpose built store unit. I am a wood burner if you will my build in my sig but every now and then I get the urge to a gas burner on some burgers, ABT's Moinks, or something.

Then again, I am the guy who ran a fuse to his propane tank before he cut it open. lol
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Javelin400



Joined: 15 Oct 2010
Posts: 22
Location: Newnan, GA

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08 11 10:53 pm    Post subject: Lid for a UDS Reply with quote

I live in the Atlanta, GA area and I am having one heck of a time finding a 22.5 inch Weber to use for a parts. I have been looking for 2 months now and cant seem to find one at a resonable price. Is there any where that I can buy just the lid? I have looked around on the internet and cant seem to find one.
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SoEzzy
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Joined: 13 Oct 2006
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Location: SLC, UT

PostPosted: Mon Aug 08 11 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Look on Craigs list, look at Big lots etc, it doesn't need to be a Weber, charbroil and other companies make them.
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Javelin400



Joined: 15 Oct 2010
Posts: 22
Location: Newnan, GA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 09 11 12:38 am    Post subject: UDS Reply with quote

SoEzzy wrote:
Look on Craigs list, look at Big lots etc, it doesn't need to be a Weber, charbroil and other companies make them.


I have looked on Craigslist however never thought about Biglots, they have one for $30. Thanks a ton, now I can finish my build.
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handsareme



Joined: 16 Dec 2011
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Dec 16 11 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there, new here with some construction method questions. Thanks for the help. Hopefully I can get it sandblasted out soon and painted, then with the next warm-ish day, have the materials ready to go and construction done in a day...we'll see.

I've gotten my barrel (it had liquid paprika in it) and am searching for a place to sandblast it out. That's not what my questions are about because I think I know where to take it.

1) The rubber ring on the lid, what should happen to that prior to sandblasting and actual use of the smoker? Should it just be taken out and discarded? The lid is held on with the metal ring/screw combination.

2) Should the caps that screw into the holes be removed? I've gotten the larger one out, but can't get the smaller air pressure relief hole loose, though I haven't tried very hard.

3) I know painting with the hi-temp paint should happen as soon after sandblasting as possible to keep the barrel from rusting, but could I put all the necessary holes in (for the food racks, thermometer, and air vents even before it's sandblasted, then can I paint it right after I get it back? Or should it be painted then drilled?

4) Is sanding necessary after sandblasting and before painting or can it be skipped?

Again, thanks for the help.
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SoEzzy
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Joined: 13 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 16 11 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

handsareme wrote:
1) The rubber ring on the lid, what should happen to that prior to sandblasting and actual use of the smoker? Should it just be taken out and discarded? The lid is held on with the metal ring/screw combination.


Remove the gasket and discard it, only use the ring and bolt, when the pit is not in use, or it will get hot and you'll burn yourself trying to take it off.

Quote:
2) Should the caps that screw into the holes be removed? I've gotten the larger one out, but can't get the smaller air pressure relief hole loose, though I haven't tried very hard.


In a 55 gallon drum you need to either drill holes in the lid, I like 8 x 1/2" holes, but you can just take out the two plugs, the 2" bung and the 3/4" bung, sometimes you may need a little extra draft stick a short length 6 - 8" of 2" pipe in the 2" bung.

Quote:
3) I know painting with the hi-temp paint should happen as soon after sandblasting as possible to keep the barrel from rusting, but could I put all the necessary holes in (for the food racks, thermometer, and air vents even before it's sandblasted, then can I paint it right after I get it back? Or should it be painted then drilled?


Yes you can do what you want... it's your pit! Wink Laughing Wink

Quote:
4) Is sanding necessary after sandblasting and before painting or can it be skipped?

Again, thanks for the help.


You don't need to sand in addition to the sand blasting, the blasting does a pretty good job, depending on how professional a job you want to do, you could degrease the outside, then prime and paint it, or you can just use multiple cans of paint and do several coats.

There are a couple of places around here that do high heat electrostatic sprayed, then baked on paint for about $60 a barrel, I've been looking at doing my 85 gallons this way for the new competition season!
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handsareme



Joined: 16 Dec 2011
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Dec 16 11 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

SoEzzy wrote:
Remove the gasket and discard it, only use the ring and bolt, when the pit is not in use, or it will get hot and you'll burn yourself trying to take it off.

In a 55 gallon drum you need to either drill holes in the lid, I like 8 x 1/2" holes, but you can just take out the two plugs, the 2" bung and the 3/4" bung, sometimes you may need a little extra draft stick a short length 6 - 8" of 2" pipe in the 2" bung.

Yes you can do what you want... it's your pit! Wink Laughing Wink

You don't need to sand in addition to the sand blasting, the blasting does a pretty good job, depending on how professional a job you want to do, you could degrease the outside, then prime and paint it, or you can just use multiple cans of paint and do several coats.

There are a couple of places around here that do high heat electrostatic sprayed, then baked on paint for about $60 a barrel, I've been looking at doing my 85 gallons this way for the new competition season!


Thanks for the quick response!

Any tips on how to get that 3/4" bung outta there?

I'm still debating about whether or not I want to get a welder friend involved. I had thought about putting in a door for fire access, but then I'd have to figure out how to seal it and I don't want to mess with it. Plus, from what I've read, you mostly set the fire and let it be. However, he'd make quick work of that draft pipe on the top.

Has anybody tried baking breads after they've finished cooking meat? Using a pizza stone, I'm wondering if the heat can be used similar to a wood-fired brick pizza oven. Probably with some increased airflow to up the temp to "bread temp".
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weihl165
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Joined: 19 Jan 2012
Posts: 64
Location: Norwich CT

PostPosted: Wed Feb 08 12 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you guys paint the inside of your drum? Or do you just wipe it with cooking oil? Hoping to fire mne up this weekend.
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GF
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Joined: 30 Apr 2011
Posts: 2792
Location: Greenwich, CT.

PostPosted: Wed Feb 08 12 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

weihl165 wrote:
Do you guys paint the inside of your drum? Or do you just wipe it with cooking oil? Hoping to fire mne up this weekend.

weihl165, Don't paint the inside. I just spray it with PAM, and fire it up to season it. Run it around 325 ish for an hour or so and your good.
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weihl165
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Joined: 19 Jan 2012
Posts: 64
Location: Norwich CT

PostPosted: Wed Feb 08 12 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GF wrote:
weihl165 wrote:
Do you guys paint the inside of your drum? Or do you just wipe it with cooking oil? Hoping to fire mne up this weekend.

weihl165, Don't paint the inside. I just spray it with PAM, and fire it up to season it. Run it around 325 ish for an hour or so and your good.

Sweet Thank You!!!
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Rinngrizz
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Joined: 13 Mar 2012
Posts: 525
Location: Sioux Falls, SD

PostPosted: Sat Mar 24 12 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I'm new to the smoking game but am looking for a new project come late may. I have a drum layin around so this seems like my likely candidate. Does anyone have pictures of how they attaches the short intake tubes to their drum? I think I have an ok grasp of the everything else.
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SVonhof
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Joined: 03 Sep 2010
Posts: 1399
Location: Central Valley, Ca

PostPosted: Sun Mar 25 12 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rinngrizz wrote:
Well, I'm new to the smoking game but am looking for a new project come late may. I have a drum layin around so this seems like my likely candidate. Does anyone have pictures of how they attaches the short intake tubes to their drum? I think I have an ok grasp of the everything else.


I don't have a picture, but it's just two electrical jam nuts (on each side of the drum) screwed onto a pipe nipple. For the three without the ball valve, I put the longer side on the inside of the drum, for the other, I have the longer side on the outside of the drum.

Pretty easy.

I put a close nipple (black pipe nipple) in the vice to hold it (grabbed it by the side I didn't need) and threaded a lock-nut on as far as it would go and then installed it in the drum and then put the one on the outside to hold it in place.
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My BBQ's: Weber Silver B (grill), -UDS-, MUDS/Weber Smokey Joe
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Rinngrizz
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Joined: 13 Mar 2012
Posts: 525
Location: Sioux Falls, SD

PostPosted: Sun Mar 25 12 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I had found some that did it that way and some that welded them. Your way sounds easier as I can do that at home or up at the school shop. Thanks again.
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QwkSlvr



Joined: 23 Mar 2012
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12 12 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so I basically stare at these pages all day at work

Right now the main question i have has to do with the fire box.

i hear a few different dimensions. but im thinking of making a round one in an 11" diameter with a 6" dept. does that sound about correct? and that will burn for up to 12 hours at 225?

will i need a larger one for smoking say... 4 briskets at once?


Thanks in advance for your help.
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SVonhof
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Joined: 03 Sep 2010
Posts: 1399
Location: Central Valley, Ca

PostPosted: Thu Apr 12 12 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

QwkSlvr wrote:
Ok, so I basically stare at these pages all day at work

Right now the main question i have has to do with the fire box.

i hear a few different dimensions. but im thinking of making a round one in an 11" diameter with a 6" dept. does that sound about correct? and that will burn for up to 12 hours at 225?

will i need a larger one for smoking say... 4 briskets at once?


Thanks in advance for your help.


If you are doing a standard 55 gallon drum, you need to go larger than that for the fire basket. If you are starting from scratch and making it from expanded metal, I would go with about 15" diameter and 10" deep. If you are using a fire grate from a Weber like many do, that is your diameter and depth should be about the same.

As for how long that will last, it all depends on the conditions the day you are smoking. Colder and windier days take more fuel to keep the temps while dry, hot days takes much less. The good thing is that when you are done, close things up and the fire will go out, that way, you can shake out the ash and re-use what is left.
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My BBQ's: Weber Silver B (grill), -UDS-, MUDS/Weber Smokey Joe
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upinmaine
Newbie


Joined: 17 Apr 2010
Posts: 38
Location: wells, maine

PostPosted: Sun Jun 03 12 8:34 pm    Post subject: UDS shopping list and instructions Reply with quote

Here is the list and instructions for how I build a UDS that I made for my friends

UDS shopping list
Make sure that all hardware is NOT Galvanized or zinc plated. Stainless works great, but is a lot more expensive. If it is shiny and not stainless then it is plated. If you can only find plated you can burn off the toxic coating with a torch or in a hot campfire and then wire brush them clean. Items in red are for the basket, and items in blue are for the barrel. Most of the parts can be found at Lowes or Home Depot. I found a cheap pizza pan at walmart.

6- 1 1/2” (1/8”) bolts with 12 nuts and 6 lockwashers
1 weber replacement grate for 22.5” kettle grill
1 long fryer thermometer with wine cork to hold it on the inside.
2 cans BBQ paint $10
6”x1 1/4” black steel pipe (threaded nipple)
1 1/4” black steel cap
4- 3/4” close black nipples
3- 3/4” black cap
1- 3/4 ips (threaded for pipe) ball valve
8- 3/4” rigid nuts (metal) for electrical conduit


1. Drill 4 evenly spaced holes around the bottom of the barrel for the 3/4” nipples about 1” up from the bottom.
2. Put a rigid conduit nut on each 3/4” nipple and then thread them in. Lock them in by putting the rigid conduit nuts on the inside and tighten with hammer and screwdriver. Put caps on three of the nipples and the ball valve on the fourth.
3. Drill two levels of 1/8” holes around the top to be the cooking grate holders. Leave enough space between the top of the fire basket and the lowest cooking grate (22” minimum). 4. 4. Thread nuts on the 1/8” bolts a little bit and attach using the nuts and lockwashers (have the heads of the bolts pointing inward to hold the grate).
5. Thread the 1 1/4” nipple into the bung on the top of the lid for a vent. Cap on top shuts it down.
6. Drill a hole in the side of the barrel for the thermometer just below the holes for the grates. Drill a hole in the cork and slide it on the inside of the barrel to hold the thermometer.



4- 3” 3/8 bolt full threaded
12- 3/8” nuts
12- 3/8” large diameter washers/fender washers
1- 24x24” expanded metal large grid (you really need 1 piece 8”x48”, but you can piece it together)
1- weber charcoal replacement grate for 18.5” kettle grill (13” diameter)
threaded rod for a handle to the basket (with four nuts and washers). If you get a long piece the remainder can be used as a basket retrieval hook.
16” steel pizza pan- Walmart
stainless steel hog rings and hog ring pliers

1. Cut the expanded metal into 8” strips.
2. Clamp the charcoal grate in a vise and stitch the expanded metal onto it using the hog ring pliers. Overlap the two pieces a little to get a nice round shape.
3. Drill 4 evenly spaced 3/8” holes for in the pizza pan. Put the bolts up through the bottom and tighten on with washers and nuts. Thread on nuts and washers just a little (to make legs) and then put through the charcoal grate. Thread on washers and nuts to sandwich the grate between the washers and tighten.
4. Cut the threaded rod a little longer than the width of the basket. Put a slight bend exactly in the middle of the threaded rod to create a place for it to hang from. Attach to the basket through the top of the expanded metal with the four washers and nuts. Use the remainder of the threaded rod to make a retrieval hook for lowering the basket into the barrel.


*Tips on cooking. Open the lid as little as possible. Once you get to the temperature you want it will usually maintain with caps on all the bottom nipples and the ball valve 3/4 open.
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upinmaine
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Joined: 17 Apr 2010
Posts: 38
Location: wells, maine

PostPosted: Sun Jun 03 12 10:25 pm    Post subject: fire basket pic Reply with quote

Here is a pic of my fire basket construction.
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af349/upinmaine/firebasket.jpg
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SoEzzy
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Joined: 13 Oct 2006
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Location: SLC, UT

PostPosted: Tue Oct 30 12 12:19 am    Post subject: Re: fire basket pic Reply with quote

upinmaine wrote:
Here is a pic of my fire basket construction.
http://i1022.photobucket.com/albums/af349/upinmaine/firebasket.jpg


Please read PMPNLT650pxOTLS!
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