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Build Your Own Upright Drum Smoker
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pxc
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Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Posts: 94

PostPosted: Sat Mar 19 11 11:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I jumped the gun but I just really wanted to see what it could do. I guess I could've run to the grocery store to get something to throw on.
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SVonhof
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Joined: 03 Sep 2010
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Location: Central Valley, Ca

PostPosted: Sat Mar 19 11 11:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should have done a fatty for breakfast!
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My BBQ's: Weber Silver B (grill), -UDS-, MUDS/Weber Smokey Joe
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Proetus
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Posts: 233
Location: Ware,MA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 20 11 4:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished sanding/grinding mine out after the burn out. Lit up a basket of lump to dry it out after i rinsed it off with the pressure washer. Just closed it down a little bit ago. Will let it cool put it back in the shed and hopefully get it finished up tmw after work. Just have to drill a few more holes for handles and paint it then i'll season it up. Although my lid doesnt want to sit to flush on the top, i think its time for a gentle adjustment with the hammer.

Pics when its done.
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pxc
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Joined: 10 Aug 2010
Posts: 94

PostPosted: Sun Mar 20 11 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's a "corned beef" brisket flat sitting on the newbie UDS right now, nearly an hour in. I'm still using the same basket of charcoal I started with last night. This thing is so cool.
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fat_boy81



Joined: 30 Mar 2011
Posts: 6
Location: God's Country AKA Oklahoma

PostPosted: Tue Apr 05 11 5:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's mine all finished. My main questions are, is four 3/4" holes in the lid enough? and I am using a maverick temp gauge, and running the cord through one of the holes in the lid. This is a pain every time i have to take the lid off. Would it screw things up if I drilled another small hole in the side of the drum to run my cords through?


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SVonhof
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Joined: 03 Sep 2010
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Location: Central Valley, Ca

PostPosted: Tue Apr 05 11 8:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

fat_boy81 wrote:
Here's mine all finished. My main questions are, is four 3/4" holes in the lid enough? and I am using a maverick temp gauge, and running the cord through one of the holes in the lid. This is a pain every time i have to take the lid off. Would it screw things up if I drilled another small hole in the side of the drum to run my cords through?


I think many of us understand the issue with the cords for the thermometers. The (4) 3/4" holes will be fine as that is basically the same thing as what a Weber lid has, and they are always open 100% anyway.

As for the cords, I don't think it will hurt to have a small hole or slot for wires to pass through as it is simply adding a very small vent if the wire doesn't take up the full size of the hole. Go for it.
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KingSalami



Joined: 06 Aug 2010
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Fri Apr 22 11 3:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What are the ball valves made of? Stainless steel, brass, copper?? I'm not too sure which ones to buy. thanks
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Jarhead
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Joined: 11 Oct 2009
Posts: 7355
Location: Marionville, Home of the White Squirrels, Missouri

PostPosted: Fri Apr 22 11 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

KingSalami wrote:
What are the ball valves made of? Stainless steel, brass, copper?? I'm not too sure which ones to buy. thanks

I used just plain ole cheap brass ones on mine ~$10
You will love this cooker. I have 3.
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mittens



Joined: 25 Apr 2011
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27 11 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All set to make myself one of these. Great little project. Was wondering what people meant when they spoke of the drums being lined? I've got a drum that was used to store propylene glycole (a food additive - supposedly food grade). The inside of the drum isn't painted, as I've heard some people's are. But it is a golden colour. Would that be a lining of some sort?

I was planning on giving it a good scrub with a wire brush and burning it out regardless (can never be too careful).

I'll upload some pics once it's all under way.

Thanks.
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SVonhof
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Joined: 03 Sep 2010
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Location: Central Valley, Ca

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27 11 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mittens, it sounds like yours has a liner. Basically anything that is not bare metal or rusted metal is going to be lined. Some that don't have liners are made for holding things such as oil or fuel.
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mittens



Joined: 25 Apr 2011
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Wed Apr 27 11 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah okay, makes sense. Thanks for that.

Started work on it today. Cut the top off (it was one of those sealed drums), drilled out holes for the bolts and air inlets, went to the hardware store and bought a ball valve, along with all the nuts, bolts and washers. Ordered a Weber grill plate from the barbecue store. Ordered a temperature gauge off eBay.

Can't wait to fire her up. Need to source myself a local butcher that will do some American style cuts of meat (most places don't sell cuts like Boston Butt and NY Strip Steaks around these parts).
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scooby3202



Joined: 07 Apr 2011
Posts: 3
Location: Wetumpka, AL

PostPosted: Sat Apr 30 11 12:49 am    Post subject: Food grade drum Reply with quote

Just bought my drum. I have a question though, can I just sandblast it instead of burning it out?
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SVonhof
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Joined: 03 Sep 2010
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Location: Central Valley, Ca

PostPosted: Sat Apr 30 11 7:08 am    Post subject: Re: Food grade drum Reply with quote

scooby3202 wrote:
Just bought my drum. I have a question though, can I just sandblast it instead of burning it out?


Yes. That's what I did since I can't burn it out where I live.
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scooby3202



Joined: 07 Apr 2011
Posts: 3
Location: Wetumpka, AL

PostPosted: Mon May 02 11 10:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Food grade drum Reply with quote

SVonhof wrote:
scooby3202 wrote:
Just bought my drum. I have a question though, can I just sandblast it instead of burning it out?


Yes. That's what I did since I can't burn it out where I live.


Thanks!
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scooby3202



Joined: 07 Apr 2011
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Location: Wetumpka, AL

PostPosted: Mon May 02 11 11:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are you guys mounting the thermometers?
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SoEzzy
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Joined: 13 Oct 2006
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Location: SLC, UT

PostPosted: Mon May 02 11 11:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depending on what type of thermometer you use, there are different methods of mounting them.

If you are using a Turkey fryer thermometer, you can put a handle on the outside with a hole drilled through the middle, a similar hole is drilled through the drum, the thermometer then balances between the two holes.

You can do the same but by welding a wedge on the inside and do teh same thing.

Some people use NFTP, (sp), fittings drill the hole, screw in the fitting, slide thermometer through the hole.

If you are using a more expensive thermometer, an Ashcroft, TelTru, etc. they come with a washer and nut kit, (you have to buy it separately), you drill a bigger hole, insert the thermometer, put on the washer and the nut.

Which ever you do, it pays to set the thermometer up so that the temperature you like to cook at, is TDC or 12 O'Clock, this makes checking the temperature a lot easier in the dark or poor light conditions.
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MacEggs
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Joined: 20 Dec 2010
Posts: 1740
Location: Barrie, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 03 11 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

scooby3202 wrote:
How are you guys mounting the thermometers?

I don't have a UDS, but I plan on building one. Here is what I did with my modified ECB.

I purchased these parts at Lowe's in the lighting dept. for less than $5.




These allowed me to do this.




I can easily remove and insert my guage. The stem on my temp gauge is 2". I am assuming this would work well with a UDS and for a longer stem. JM2C. Smile
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SVonhof
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Joined: 03 Sep 2010
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Location: Central Valley, Ca

PostPosted: Tue May 03 11 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MacEggs wrote:

These allowed me to do this.




I can easily remove and insert my guage. The stem on my temp gauge is 2". I am assuming this would work well with a UDS and for a longer stem. JM2C. Smile


I did basically the same thing, but I used a brass compression fitting on mine. The way MacEggs did it is probably cheaper as my fitting alone was $5.50. Granted, that's all I had to buy, but still.
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huskerfan1200
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Joined: 13 Apr 2011
Posts: 42
Location: Rochester, MN

PostPosted: Wed May 04 11 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am acquiring parts/knowledge to build a couple of these for myself. Thanks for all the great information on these pages.

My first one will be pretty basic and I'll likely add things to it as I discover what else is needed.

One thought I had was about wrapping the UDS in a water heater wrap to retain more heat. The wrap that I have around my water heater now would be big enough and I assume heat resistant. Maybe not such a good idea to have the fiberglass in the area of the food?

Thoughts?
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SVonhof
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Joined: 03 Sep 2010
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Location: Central Valley, Ca

PostPosted: Wed May 04 11 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

huskerfan1200 wrote:
One thought I had was about wrapping the UDS in a water heater wrap to retain more heat. The wrap that I have around my water heater now would be big enough and I assume heat resistant. Maybe not such a good idea to have the fiberglass in the area of the food?

Thoughts?


It would be fine as long as the areas around the vents and any other openings are sealed up somehow so the fibers from the fiberglass couldn't get into the food or the fire. Some people have used welding blankets or even canvas around their smokers.

I had thought about getting a bunch of Poplar wood from Home Depot as it's fairly cheap and basically wrapping it around the drum similar to a wine or whiskey barrel and using a steel wrap to hold them in place. Figured it would insulate well as it would have a nice air-gap because of the ridges in the drum. You could even apply a nice finish to the wood on the outside to make it look nice if you felt like it.
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