250 Gal Propane Tank build questions

[FlightRN]

[KMM]

Can you tape it out with blue painters tape and post a pic before you cut? It would give everyone a good look at your thoughts and avoid a big whoopsie that will cost more beer?

[k.a.m.]

I mark my chambers at 12,3,6,9. 12 being the top of the tank and 6 the bottom. For your horizontal cut I prefer my reverse flow plate to be 4.5" below the top of my lower grate so my cut on the dome would be 4.5" below 3 and 6.
I hope this helps.
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Hybrid Cooker

[k.a.m.]

For marking the dome once you have established your quadrants make a water level out of some clear hose. Chock the tank so that 3 and 6 are plumb then using the water level measure 4.5" down on 3 and 6. Set the level on one of the marks and then go around the dome making marks then just connect the dots.
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Hybrid Cooker

[FlightRN]

marked my line for the fire box opening with grease pencil. I measured 11in. Figuring this should make my baffle plate 4 in below my cooking grates? plan on attaching baffle plate directly to fire box. Doors I am planning on leaving 1 in at each end from weld line and 2.5 in gap in the middle. this will make doors 29in wide each. I planed bottom of door 1in below 3 o clock position and the top right at 12 o clock (to prevent rain water getting in once 1 1/2 in flat bar was welded into place)

[k.a.m.]

On a 30" diameter tank I suggest you drop your top cut 6.5" down from the top. If your bottome cut is 1" below 3 then this will make your doors around 18" long and manageable when opened.
_________________
Always remember slow and steady wins the race.

Hybrid Cooker

[KMM]

If you choose to cut with the 4.5" sidearm, be sure to use the thin (1/16") cutting disks. Buy a bunch of them, that tank is probably 3/8-1/4 thick.

[FlightRN]

Marked out doors and started cuts. I ended up deciding to leave the valve ports in place and leave the original propane tank specification plate in place. I like the character and distinction that people truly see what it formerly was. my buddy can get some plugs to weld over the valve ports. even toying with the idea of running an oven light down through one of the valve ports.

[FlightRN]

Will 1/8 in 1 1/12 angle iron work for racks in CC? I can get it for free...

After stripping down the trailer and really getting a good look it seems it will be too much work for the results I want. I ended up buying a different trailer. I'll post pics later this week when I pick it up.

[k.a.m.]

[FlightRN]

Reverse flow plate question. Is there a specific measurement for the opening at the opposite end from the FB or can I just end the flow plate where the bell begins?

[k.a.m.]

[FlightRN]

[k.a.m.]

[KMM]

I would recommend you bite the bullet and go with the .25". It will be easier to work with and less prone to warp during fabrication. If you are going to insulate, use the 3/16 to wrap with.

[FlightRN]

Made some progress today. Fire box to cook chamber cut out is done.

Picked up a new trailer that I think will work so much better than the free one from my dad.

Now I am just waiting on some bids for the plate steel. I plan to mount the tank to the trailer this weekend.

[KMM]

Nice to see you going after it. How was Thor experience cutting the tank steel? I am guessing you are beginning to see the twisted logic that drives builders to "invest" in tools (plasma cutters, air compressors, wire welders, grinders, mag drills,drill presses, etc). The "investment" drives more builds to help " justify" the "investment"....like farming, aviation, firearms, fishing, etc....it either gets in your blood or it doesn't.

I like the bones of your new trailer a lot more than the snowmobile Frankenstein. Be aware, you will need to add many more leaf springs and will need to put some thought into extending the frame. Otherwise the cooker will be acting as a unibody and will be subject to twisting forces that are less than desirable.

All part of the challenge

[FlightRN]

Took a break from the smoker to make some beer...[/img]

[FlightRN]

Need advice....We got the tank up on the trailer and it looks great and fits perfect. Doors seem right height....but tongue weight is only 85lbs and FB (going to weigh 350lbs) is not mounted. We have discussed two options, looking for advice on what is best.

1. We cut back of trailer out and slide tank forward We would weld another frame support behind the FB and weld supports onto sides of FB itself into frame

2. Go with what we have and add counter weight into 4x4 tube and cap it off. (this begs question of how much weight?)

[KMM]

What is the thickness of the tank wall? I am guessing it is .025"? If so, you would only need to move about 4sqft of steel forward to balance the added 350# firebox. Depending on the actual tank circumference,(I am assuming it is about 3') you will only need to move forward 4-8". Don't forget to add the approx weight of the exhaust stack, racks, rails, door counterweight, added frame, cross members, etc when making your calculation.
Trying to use counterweights is not really ideal. However, should you chose to go that route, consider installing something like tractor suitcase weights. Hang them as low as possible to keep your overall CG low.