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Non-Smoker Weld Question 2017

 
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upmm019
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Joined: 18 Aug 2008
Posts: 241
Location: Sioux Falls, SD

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03 17 6:06 pm    Post subject: Non-Smoker Weld Question 2017 Reply with quote

Hello Fellow SmokeRingers..... been a longtime since I was on this forum but when I was I got tremendous amount of support when building my clone cabinet smoker.

Given I am not a metal worker and rarely weld I was hoping some folks who work with metal very frequently could give me some guidance on a non-smoker build.

Last year with some guidance for the skirt I built this "Mega Tree". I could never find a shop that would bend tubing for the skirt for me so I made it out of rebar. Not the best but it did work last year.

It's made out of the black pipe you get at Menards and the base is called a portable hole. You have a coupler buried into the portable hole which is filled with concrete. The tree held up last Christmas with no major issues. Once I had it in placed it was guy wired into place.

The problem is the tree mast - when I took it down in January it broke off at the threaded coupler joint in the portable hole.

I am now trying to figure out how to fix and prevent a future break. I know the entire thing needs to be redesigned but I need to figure out some sort of simple fix. I have another portable hole that I should be able to thread in the mast with the little threads that are left however, I think I need a way to secure it more so that there is no flex thus causing it to snap off at the threaded coupler joint.




As you can see from the latter photo once it's all set up there is a lot of weight and it wants to tip forward so once I have it in place I also build a 2x6 foot print if you will that keeps it from wanting to flip forward.

I am wondering if I can weld something up that can attach to the 2x6 wood frame of the portable hole that can maybe help clamp it so it is less likely to flex... I just have not been able to visualize what that could be yet and was hoping some of you who fabricate and are pro metal workers can give me a suggestion.

Thanks guys for looking at this post. I know its not smoker related.
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k.a.m.
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Joined: 12 Dec 2007
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Location: Southeast Texas.

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03 17 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Build some adjustable slip pipe braces that will sit under the re-bar where your gussets tie in. On the top of the adjuster have a half pipe like a saddle that will sit on the re-bar. You would need five and being adjustable they can adjust to uneven ground.
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upmm019
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03 17 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

KAM - having a hard time visualizing that... can you direct me to a photo or something similar?
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upmm019
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03 17 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK. Googled slip pipe.. I think I understand now... however, just cleaned up what threads there are left and there are none that are not damaged.

So I am going to need to find an alternative solution. This is adjustable up to 17' so there is a pipe inside the damaged pipe so I cannot really shove anything into it.

The only option is to get a larger pipe that the damaged pipe could sit into.-- not sure what to do yet.
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KMM
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 03 17 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kevin has a great idea for stabilizing the "tree" while it is on display. I would like to take a look at that pipe eating "portable hole". I am guessing it weight about 2-250lbs? Also looks like the base of the tree is 6'ish ft in diameter?
I would cut a half circle 6' wide out of 1/2 plate and weld a pipe on the center of the back edge (straight side) just large enough to slip the tree trunk into. Once it is installed, slip the trunk in place and drill two 1/2" holes (one towards bottom, other towards top) and pin the trunk in place. That would give you 14 ft2 of base that weighs only slightly more than that chunky block of concrete (285 vs 250). You could either weld a couple lifting hooks on the base and move with loader or weld up a couple simple carriages that can be bolted to the bottom of the plate and pull it around with a rope or garden tractor. (Either vertically or laying flat) . If you re worried about the wind taking it, drill a few holes around the outside perimeter and drive stakes through the the hole into the ground.
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upmm019
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Joined: 18 Aug 2008
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Location: Sioux Falls, SD

PostPosted: Fri Nov 03 17 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes you are correct on the diameter the top portion from the skirt is 12' and then the 2.5' star. the only issue is that there is a 1" pipe inside the larger pipe and when lowered it bottoms out at about 1" above where the threads broke off.

Given the threads are crap and I don't have an easy way of getting the larger piece of metal as you suggest to eliminate the portable hole I will have to find some other sort of solution.

I can weld anywhere on the pipe except for the back as that is where the winch set up runs.

Here is the photo of the guts if you will. there is a 1" pipe with a tree topper that holds the light strips at the top and the star. There is a 1" conduit pipe that rides on the outside that inserts into a fitting on the tree topper and the bottom the winch hook slips into and that allows to raise and lower that inside pipe - thus putting tension on the light strips.


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jess
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04 17 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have room to cut it below the damaged threads ? If so you could have it rethreaded with male threads and use a bell coupling above it. As to flexing above how about a pipe collar drilled for some guy wires attached?...
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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 04 17 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You say there’s another pipe inside the damaged threads? Just wondering what it’s doing there and what you could do to get it out. I think the quickest thing I’d look for is just getting a piece of solid round stock to sleeve all this pipe over, both top and bottom.
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dwilliams35
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05 17 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You say there’s another pipe inside the damaged threads? Just wondering what it’s doing there and what you could do to get it out. I think the quickest thing I’d look for is just getting a piece of solid round stock to sleeve all this pipe over, both top and bottom.
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KMM
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 05 17 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

How mobil does the display site need to be? If it goes in the same place every year, here is what I would do.

Cut the bottom of the buggered-up end flush just above the threads
Procure 2 ea pieces of 10"x10 1/2" plate. Weld a pin hinge to the plates so they fit flush with each other but can be separated by pulling the pin
Label one "bottom" other "top"
With plates pinned together at hinge, drill 2ea 1/2"holes on the opposite side of the hinge
Seperate plate and either tap bottom plate or dill hole large enough to accept nut for 1/2" bolt
Reassemble and install bolts to insure fit ( you may have to bore out top hole to get bolts to align... Ok because you will use a flat washer anyway.
Weld a three foot lenthgth of 7/8 or 1" rod to bottom of bottom plate.
Weld a 4-6" length of same size rod perpendicular to the bottom end of the 3' rod
Prime and paint bottom plate and rod
Determine the exact location you would like the tree trunk to be
Dig a 4 ft deep hole about 10-12" wide centered on that location
Install a 3'10" length of 8" sonatube in the center of the hole
Back fill between tube and hole wall with clean sand or pea gravel. (Making sure top of tube is level in all directions)
Mix and fill sonatube with redimix concrete ( should only take 3-4 80# bags)
Insert bottom plate with rod into concrete, (tap sonatube to insure concrete fills in around rod) until bottom of plate rests squarely on top of sonatube. Let cure 1-2 weeks
Weld the newly squared bottom of threaded tube to the center of top hinge plate such that flat side of tree folds down.
Once concrete has had a chance to cure, repin plates together, reassemble tree and raise. Bolt plates together with 1/2x1.25 bolts using flat washer as required
Yes, it is sort of difficult the first year, but will make setting up a snap year 2 onwards. Bottom plate should be about 1" below grade which facilitates summer mowing, etc. You will eliminate the problematic fake hole and probably sleep better when those winter winds howl.
Parts are easy to build at home or have fabricated at local blacksmith shop. Sounds involved, but could easily be done in one day by one person if necessary.
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