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Cutting door in pipe for smoker

 
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Oscarito



Joined: 26 May 2012
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Sun May 27 12 6:13 am    Post subject: Cutting door in pipe for smoker Reply with quote

Hey everyone. New guy here. Just finished my first custom smoker. 20" pipe 1/4" wall. One question, when cutting the door to the pipe, the door expanded, so now it doesn't close as tight. Any tips on how to keep that from happening? Stitch cut?

http://instagr.am/p/LGuD_1uIM8/
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k.a.m.
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Joined: 12 Dec 2007
Posts: 26012
Location: Southeast Texas.

PostPosted: Sun May 27 12 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the ring Oscarito, looking forward to seeing some pics of your cooks. Smile
Let me first say it really does not matter what you use to cut with or the method to do it if the pipe or vessel is sprung in the location of your door cut the metal will relieve itself when you cut it.
I do prefer to take precautions when making a door cut, I leave about 1" at all four corners and 12-3-6-9 then let the door cool completely this does work from time to time. I always just prepare myself for a door tweaking session once the door is back on.
Here are some pics that may help.
In this pic you can see the portions left to cool.


In this pic I have cleaned up the door and repositioned it for straps and hinges, I prefer to lay out my doors this way so I can set it in the hole where I want it. If you add hinges before the cuts the door sometimes drops and that is a pita to recover from.

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Oscarito



Joined: 26 May 2012
Posts: 4

PostPosted: Sun Jun 03 12 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks k.a.m

yeah, next time i'll probably leave the corners for last.

here's some pics.





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cajun
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Joined: 26 Jan 2007
Posts: 46
Location: Kolin, Louisiana

PostPosted: Mon May 27 13 9:07 am    Post subject: Heavy ? Reply with quote

That thing looks awful heavy to move it around, maybe some bigger wheels and some swivel wheels on the front. Or you better have a belly full of Pork Butt before trying to move it. Anyway that is one good looking pit, and I bet when it gets hot it will be hot for a long time..Great job........
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famous david



Joined: 07 Dec 2013
Posts: 23
Location: Ne Ks

PostPosted: Sun Dec 08 13 3:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice cooker, nice shop,[/b]
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DUMMY QUE



Joined: 12 Aug 2013
Posts: 23
Location: stoutsville Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Dec 18 13 8:22 am    Post subject: new cooker Reply with quote

SWEET NICE JOB
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whiskers57
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Joined: 13 Dec 2013
Posts: 54
Location: South centeral Ky.

PostPosted: Mon Dec 23 13 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm working my first build, for a friend and what I did on the door cutout is made the top cut all the way across, and down each side a couple of inches. then I laid down the seal strap, and hinges. Then I cut the sides all the way to the bottom and across a couple of inches, and laid down the side seal straps. Then the bottom. I did all the door cuts with a cutoff wheel. It worked out good.
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Wreckless
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Joined: 15 May 2009
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Location: New Braunfels, TX

PostPosted: Tue Dec 24 13 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

k.a.m.'s method works well. There are a few tricks to getting her back in shape though. A chain and bottle neck jack, a piece of heavy angle and a good door slam or two, grind the offending corner down a bit, grinding the bottom cooker opening down to split the difference of the pull. If you decide to fix the door, post some close up pics of the pulled area and some good advice will surely follow on how to procede if wanted.
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whiskers57
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Joined: 13 Dec 2013
Posts: 54
Location: South centeral Ky.

PostPosted: Wed Dec 25 13 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you had the door completely off the tank, could you use a hi-lift/handy-man jack to put the curve back into the door, has anyone tried this? Just thinking it might be easier.
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Dand78
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Joined: 15 May 2012
Posts: 25
Location: Central Illinois

PostPosted: Thu Dec 26 13 3:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whiskers57 wrote:
If you had the door completely off the tank, could you use a hi-lift/handy-man jack to put the curve back into the door, has anyone tried this? Just thinking it might be easier.


That would work. Just measure before and after each bend attempt so you don't over do it. Those jacks are good for everything, even pinching fingers.

Dan
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 26 13 5:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A high lift will work I prefer a hydraulic bottle jack or my porta power jack it is easier to maneuver around.
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abaralnek



Joined: 26 Aug 2012
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Sat Jan 04 14 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last couple of builds I did were reverse flows.I ended up cutting 1 end bell off the tank and then welded the BP plate in before I even touched the door. I also bought a milwaukee metal cutting saw and have been using it to cut all my metal and doors, best investment I've made. Using the saw the cuts stay cool to the touch and I haven't had to straighten a door since
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Smokin Mike
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Joined: 02 Dec 2008
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Location: Winston-Salem, NC

PostPosted: Tue Jan 14 14 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

abaralnek wrote:
I also bought a milwaukee metal cutting saw and have been using it to cut all my metal and doors, best investment I've made. Using the saw the cuts stay cool to the touch and I haven't had to straighten a door since


abaralnek, Are you making a plunge cut with that saw?
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abaralnek



Joined: 26 Aug 2012
Posts: 7

PostPosted: Thu Jan 16 14 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am..seems to work great!!
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k.a.m.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16 14 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would love to have one for cutting sheet metal and almost bought one a while back until I saw some doors cut with one and they had sprung. I have also seen guys beat themselves to death with sawzaws only to have doors spring. These cookers convinced me that it really doesn't matter what you use when cutting the door if the tank or pipe is stressed when you make the cut you relieve it. Some folks get lucky some don't. I have made continuous cuts on doors with my O/A with minimal to no springing at all.
One build here on the ring took off his bell like I did and mentioned earlier by abaralnek put his plate in and was happy that no warping had occurred He then cut his doors with said sawzall, with our help and days of tweaking he fixed the doors.
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Smokin Mike
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Joined: 02 Dec 2008
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Location: Winston-Salem, NC

PostPosted: Thu Jan 16 14 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smokin Mike wrote:
abaralnek, Are you making a plunge cut with that saw?


abaralnek wrote:
i am..seems to work great!!


Cool! I just haven't have the courage, faith, or gonads to attempt that.

Kevin, I'm surprised that as much metal work as you do, you don't have a cold saw.
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k.a.m.
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Joined: 12 Dec 2007
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Location: Southeast Texas.

PostPosted: Thu Jan 16 14 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smokin Mike wrote:
Smokin Mike wrote:
abaralnek, Are you making a plunge cut with that saw?


abaralnek wrote:
i am..seems to work great!!


Cool! I just haven't have the courage, faith, or gonads to attempt that.

Kevin, I'm surprised that as much metal work as you do, you don't have a cold saw.

Never really needed one. I look at it much like a plasma cutter. Yes it would be nice to own one but my cuts rival any free hand plasma I have seen. I do have a Milwaukee cold cut chop saw that gets a work out. They call it cold cut but believe me the steel gets hot enough to let you know it.
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Stainless
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Joined: 24 Feb 2008
Posts: 66
Location: Fort Smith, AR

PostPosted: Tue Feb 11 14 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this isn't possible with all builds but for a lot of them. Has anyone ever tried pre-cutting the holes like k.a.m. and then gusseting the lid on each side with a shallow half moon? I know it would make the lid a little heavier but with 1/4".. who would notice.
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